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Routes in Peanut Gallery, The

A Face in the Crowd T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bluff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolt Run S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Change UP T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronoid Process T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eyes of Silver S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finger Grafitti S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free Falling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Heckler, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Ages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchin' Nails TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shootout T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Tumbling Turmoil S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Poo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 798 total, 12/month
Shared By: Patrick M. on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

The route starts in a dihedral with a tiny crack. That's the crux and it is pretty difficult to protect. You can go to the right for an easier way up. Then, you follow a nice crack. The rock is beautiful there are face moves, stemming, offwidth, etc. Really entertaining and easy to protect. I haven't done the second pitch.

Location

The route if on the far right of the southeast face. The start is at the same level as the road.

Protection

Micro-nuts for the thin crack at the start, if you choose the climb it direct. Then, medium to large gear for the remaining of the climb. Anchors on top.

Photos

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The second pitch: Continue straight up from first pitch on a ledge to some mantles to an angled ledge all the while while aiming for the obvious crack. You are now facing a pull over a bulge with undercut knob feet, small incuts for hands, and a single point of protection to avoid a ledge deck and that you really, really, really hope will hold (and that you probably only have in the first place if your tall-ish and can place it: yellow metolius mastercam). Yeah. Totally 5.8, baby ;). You pull the bulge to a jug you match on before breathing a sigh of relief. Much more challenging than the first in terms of both difficulty and head space concerns.

After this you have gained a crack ranging from fingers to hands and then a choice of bolted exits either following two bolts left or one bolt right and up. If you are like me, you racked up entirely with sport draws to link the pitch together and are now suffering heinous rope drag.

From the rap anchor (a little scrambly to access) you can make a single 70m rope rappel to get off the top. Jun 12, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
 
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
 
I led the first pitch yesterday and thought is was quite a nice route. Definitely varied in technique with some thin crack, wider crack, stem, layback, and even a mantle. Personally I thought the first section protected just fine with small nuts. A nice full value pitch. Nov 4, 2012