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Routes in Mad Meadows

Alpine Feel V0 4
Amphitheater, The V3 6A
Barnacles V1 5
Break, The V2 5+
Bushmen V4+ 6B+
Crimps, The V5- 6C
Crimpsqueak V8 7B
Dish, The V1 5
Dr. Doom V2 5+
Drugstore Cowboy V3 6A
Flake, The V4 6B
Flounder V2 5+
Foot Fumpkin V4 6B
Hanta Man V9 7C
Heir Apparent V0 4
Hole, The V6 7A
Hueco Route, The V1 5
Jib, The V8 7B
Lamb, The V3 6A
Madvillian V2 5+
No Pain No Grain V5 6C
Ockham's Razor V5 6C
Peephole, The V10-11 8A
Pimpsqueak V9 7C
Pocket Rocket V3 6A
Pocket, The V4 6B PG13
Pruning Shears V1 5
Rail, The V3 6A
Rudder, The V1 5 R
Sail, The V9 7C
Scoop, The V2 5+
Shard, The V5 6C
Spongepad Squarepad V3 6A
Squarepusher V3 6A
Superman V10 7C+
Swordfish V4+ 6B+
Tentacles, The V3 6A
Undercling, The V5- 6C
Wooly Mammoth V0 4
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,009 total, 15/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

When I first looked at this problem in the book, and saw the pointy block under the start, I completely wrote the problem off. Why would I do this thing? As it turns out, I was missing out on a great problem.
While working other stuff under the roof, I looked it over, and realized that it was actually very good. All the holds are decent: no little tweakies, and the moves are big and fun. Good footwork makes it much easier.
Start on the sloper, handjam, or underclings in the back, and work your way straight out the roof until you are climbing up the dual diagonal cracks. Grab the jug/fingerlock on the right crack and pull over to finish. The crux is making a throw from the juglet to the flared sloper as you turn the roof (awesome).
I never thought I would say so, but this problem is well worth booting up for. I give it 3/4 stars only because it's a little low and has the block underneath. Highly recommended.

Location

Hanta Man is in the cave of the same name high in Mad Meadows. After passing The Pocket and The Undercling, on your way uphill towards Pimpsqueak, look for a low cave facing east (away from you as you are walking towards it). The leftmost route, which starts on underclings halfway out the roof is Superman, v10. The rightmost route is the crack: No Pain No Grain, v5, and Hanta Man follows an open-hand undercling and incut juglet out the center. God Is In The Details, v12, starts on Hanta Man and heads left to finish on Superman. All three of the problems that start on the right start on the underclings/hand jams in the deepest part of the cave.

Protection

You may need something on the pointy boulder under the first couple of moves. A pad will be too big, so maybe a sweatshirt, just to keep from tearing up some skin if you come off. One pad ought to be enough to make you comfortable to go for it, but it's a low roof, so you won't do any serious damage to yourself if you don't have a pad.

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