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Layback Route

5.8+, Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 27 votes
FA: Loran Smith 1979
New Hampshire > Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall


The obvious corner system in the middle of the cliff.
P1: Climb the face with flakes and horizontals to a tree ledge below the big roof with a three pin anchor in a left facing corner. 55’
P2: Climb up under the roof and traverse left making moves into the corner. Follow the crack up the corner until the corner ends. Move right onto a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 50’
P3: Climb straight up off the anchor and pull the crux overlap with a seam running up the face (5.10). The crux can be avoided by traversing right around the overlap (original finish, 5.8). Follow the bigger holds to the top. Walk off or rap from trees. 55’


The obvious mega corner in the center of the cliff


Bring A rack to #3 or 4

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The no hands rest!
[Hide Photo] The no hands rest!
The roof traverse
[Hide Photo] The roof traverse
Jonathan Garlough on Layback Route. The chimney can be seen above.<br>
Photo by James Dickson
[Hide Photo] Jonathan Garlough on Layback Route. The chimney can be seen above. Photo by James Dickson

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Denver
[Hide Comment] The p3, 5.10 finish is superb if you can figure out the move. It took me a long time, but once i went for it, it all happpend so smooth. Personally I'd recommend doing the arete up to the start of this for one of the best link-ups on the cliff. Jul 20, 2012