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Routes in Central (Blooming Rose, Claim Jumper, and Winchester Walls)

Aces and Eights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Annie Git Yer Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brown Dirt Cowgirl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chubs4U S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Claim Jumper S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cowboys Are My Only Weakness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give my Love to Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Greenhorns in Velvet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Horse with a Twisted Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lever Action S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Matilda's Last Waltz S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Medicine Show (1st pitch) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miner's Delight S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Never Sit With Your Back to the Door S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Phat Phinger Phrenzy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red as a Blooming Rose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roll in the Hay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaghetti Western S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stacked Deck S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Buffalo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a V11 8A
Winchester Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pete Delannoy, 1991
Page Views: 600 total, 9/month
Shared By: bmdhacks on Jun 10, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

A great combination of pockets and slab. Don't miss the shell fossil at waist level right at the start.

Location

This climb is on the face around the right of the main alcove of the Claim Jumper wall. It's obscured by, and slightly to the right of a big tree close to the wall.

Protection

bolts to chains

Photos

bmdhacks  
 
I think it's the slab that gets you. Non-steep routes like this can be both technically and psychologically challenging for a beginning leader. The features thin out and a fall comes with the threat of hitting the rock. Still, this route felt like 5.7 slab to me. But it could get harder in the future as the features polish-up. Jul 14, 2012
stvsmth Smith
Lander, WY
5.8+
stvsmth Smith   Lander, WY
5.8+
At 5.7 (as of Bechtel 2011) you'd think this would be a great lead for beginners in the OK Corral. You'd be wrong. Don't get me wrong, it's a fun climb, but the beginning leader may want to look elsewhere and wander back when regularly climbing harder stuff.

The start can be a little vexing. Easier climbing gets you to the third bolt and then it's delicate face climbing for a few moves before easier terrain sets in. By delicate face climbing I man thin (but plentiful) holds and anonymous, small smears for the feet. I suppose there might be some beta that makes a 5.7 rating more reasonable, but in my opinion a 5.7 should be, by definition, fairly obvious after a few attempts.

The climber in search of 7-8 leads will probably want to head over to La Vaca Peligrosa (5.8) for a better grouping of moderates. While shorter and not as nice as Greenhorns, Slave (8) and R is for Redneck (7) are more accessible to the beginning leader and a good warm-up for the very nice La Vaca. Jul 6, 2012