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Passing Lane

5.10, Sport,  Avg: 2.1 from 19 votes
FA: Tod Anderson, 2009
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Crack of Noon Area
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Description

There is a tricky slab move before reaching the first bolt. Move left into a right-facing flake system at the 5th bolt (maybe clip with a longer sling to avoid drag) or skip it. Pass a hanger-less stud up the flake to a fun juggy mantle onto a stance. Try not to pump out as you pull over the last bulge to the anchor. This felt way harder than Fat Chicks and Mopeds, so maybe warm up on that one first....

Location

From the low point of the slab, there are two bolt lines. The right one is Fat Chicks and Mopeds and the left line splits into two routes at the 5th bolt. The left variation is Passing Lane, the right variation is Poaching Lane.

Protection

About 12 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Passing Lane, after falling off the crux.
[Hide Photo] Passing Lane, after falling off the crux.
Devli's Head - Passing Lane.
[Hide Photo] Devli's Head - Passing Lane.
Devli's Head - Passing Lane.
[Hide Photo] Devli's Head - Passing Lane.
Looking up at the Passing Lane.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the Passing Lane.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Lead this today. Wow, assuming followed the correct bolt line to the top (there are 3-4 choices), pulling over the crux was really hard - bad crimps to get over a bulge - I'll upload a pic from just after my fall there. Fun route though, and amazing scenery from this spot!

I'm still a climbing newbie, so take this with a grain of salt, but I'd give the crux at the bolts just below the anchor (the second and third below the anchor) a 10d rating - definitely not 10b like the rest of the route (Haas/Schneider/Weinhold guide). Rope drag was also noticeably high at the top of the route, probably because of the slanted angle of bolt line. This route takes 11 plus 2 draws. Jun 18, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
 
[Hide Comment] FA: Tod Anderson, Summer 2009. Dec 10, 2013
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] The guidebook must have a typo to call this a 10a. That'll get someone hurt. There are a dozen moves harder than that and a solid 10d crux, if you're tall enough to get the little rail. It's actually a beautiful climb, but prepare yourself for the power and grace needed. Aug 17, 2020