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Routes in Crack of Noon Area

CNC 1 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CNC 2 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Castlewood Simulator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Chicks and Mopeds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Passing Lane S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poaching Lane S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless in Denver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, 2009
Page Views: 105 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jun 8, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

There is a tricky slab move before reaching the first bolt. Move left into a right-facing flake system at the 5th bolt (maybe clip with a longer sling to avoid drag) or skip it. Pass a hanger-less stud up the flake to a fun juggy mantle onto a stance. Try not to pump out as you pull over the last bulge to the anchor. This felt way harder than Fat Chicks and Mopeds, so maybe warm up on that one first....

Location

From the low point of the slab, there are two bolt lines. The right one is Fat Chicks and Mopeds and the left line splits into two routes at the 5th bolt. The left variation is Passing Lane, the right variation is Poaching Lane.

Protection

About 12 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

percious
Bear Creek, CO
 
percious   Bear Creek, CO
 
FA: Tod Anderson, Summer 2009. Dec 10, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Lead this today. Wow, assuming followed the correct bolt line to the top (there are 3-4 choices), pulling over the crux was really hard - bad crimps to get over a bulge - I'll upload a pic from just after my fall there. Fun route though, and amazing scenery from this spot!

I'm still a climbing newbie, so take this with a grain of salt, but I'd give the crux at the bolts just below the anchor (the second and third below the anchor) a 10d rating - definitely not 10b like the rest of the route (Haas/Schneider/Weinhold guide). Rope drag was also noticeably high at the top of the route, probably because of the slanted angle of bolt line. This route takes 11 plus 2 draws. Jun 18, 2012