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Routes in Dent de Jaman

Ace of Spades 5b S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Type: Sport, Aid, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 425 total, 6/month
Shared By: Seleucus on Jun 7, 2012
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.6): follow the bolts through a few vertical sections on crumbly holds. Moves feel harder than they are due to the quality of the rock.
Pitch 2 (5.5): Do one interesting move and then hike up the tufts of grass to a ledge (note: it is possible to hike to this ledge to bypass the first two pitches).
Pitch 3 (5.10d or 5.8 A0). Perform an awkward traverse before coming to a short but steep wall. Pull through it to a jug and continue to the anchors.
Pitch 4 (5.7): Pleasant varied climbing takes you up to a hidden anchor (when you feel that you have run out of bolts look down and to your left around a block).

Pitch 5 (5.7): Continue up a grassy bit to an interesting right facing crack/corner system. The anchors are at the top.

Location

The easiest way is to follow the path which goes below the mountain and circles around toward the Southern side. Once the southern face comes into view follow the red markings up a very steep scree slope towards the face. Once you reach the base, there will be signs directing you to the left (toward I Wanna Rock) or to the right (toward Ace of Spades). Follow the signs to Ace of Spades. Continue along the wall until you see red paint saying "Ace".

Protection

Route is entirely bolted and belays are equipped for rappel.

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