[Hide Comment] This route is on the Middle Wall of the Amphitheater, the only one that goes through the roof, at a right-angle notch where there are ring anchors at a small ledge. The rope will go over the sharp edge of the ledge, so either take regular top-rope rigging for that or maybe pre-rig. Starting a rappel is as usual very clumsy and unusually difficult, not recommended.

There are three bolts on the face, the first the lowest on that wall, to a small triangular overhang with a fourth on the sloped face above, that shorter people will find difficult to reach up to. Common line is to the right over some other small overhangs. It is the fifth bolt that is way wide to the left of a good rest stance, beyond a vertical crack where some put a cam. It has a black sling through the hanger, and is one of the worst at Pilot.

Your next target is the skirt at the beginning of the roof, with a reach right to the sixth bolt. The crux is the strenuous pull and hook and throw to a flat ledge at a small notch. Expect a two- or even one-hand hang. Reaching right to the last bolt is also strenous, with another big mount to the top ledge.

From the severe overhang, retrieving gear on rappel will be a trial too. See more at ClimbPilotNC.us/ClimbingAre…
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Jun 25, 2012

[Hide Comment] fun rambling slab to the first anchors. I clip a long runner on the anchors a move up to the first fixed draw on easy terrain, but you probably wouldn't want to blow this clip. rest. smash through the steep and press out a final mantle to the anchors. fixed chain draws were added to the last two bolts for ease of clipping and alleviate the immense pain of cleaning on lower (or worse rappel). Once you have redpointed the route you can just jump off the top onto the last fixed to avoid the rope shredding lower. however, don't skip the mantle if you have never done it. full value and the move adds to the proposed grade. Nov 27, 2023