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Clippidy Doodah...

5.11c, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > Laurel Knob

Description

This is a really fun and fairly sustained new route that yielded only one gear placement on the whole thing. It also required a good bit of cleaning but turned out to be of very high quality, and is a must do for someone looking for more of a challenge than just ordinary slab climbing or grooving. There are quite a few crystal knobs on all 3 pitches that make for interesting climbing. Most of the route is solid 5.10, with exception of the short crux on pitch 2 that is 11.

Note: this route is easily rappelled with a single 60 m rope. The first pitch diagonals, but the rap is only 80' or so.

P-1 Climb up and right following a line of 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10+ 120'

P-2 Move out left and climb past bolts on featured steeper rock that gradually gets harder, culminating in a hard 11c move. From the crux the climbing eases up past 2 more bolt to a bolt anchor. 5.11c 100'

P-3 Move left and climb past 3 bolts on featured rock to the one and only gear protected spot. Continue up and right on the ramp past 3 bolts to a ledge and one more bolt and then the bolt anchor. 5.10+/11 95'

Location

Just right of Wild Wild West and just left of Dillard Arete.

Protection

Almost exclusively bolted except for one #9 stopper and a possible #0 TCU on P-3 (both in the same spot)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

at the end of P3 after linking P2 and P3 on a rope solo ascent.
[Hide Photo] at the end of P3 after linking P2 and P3 on a rope solo ascent.