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Routes in P.C.T. Cliff

Day Hike T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Happy Trail T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Helping Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moonwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mothers and Fathers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Guys with the Shakes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
P.C.T. Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radical Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trail Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Unknown - probably John Jackson and Joe Missick with the FFA (1994)
Page Views: 665 total, 10/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Jun 3, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

A steep, beautiful dihedral starts with fingers and face moves up a steadily overhanging slab of rock. The bottom section is prime granite punctuated by several roof sections and some choice jams. And then... moss hell. The upper wide hands/fists/offwidth section steadily deteriorates into an unholy crap storm of moss sticking to skin, blinding eyes, and raining down on the oppressed belayer. You will look like a moss covered hooligan after this route.

This climb would easily be 3-4 stars were it cleaned up, and it still boasts some prime climbing for the first 2/3rds of the route, but some serious cleaning both in terms of the route and the short approach "trail" leading to it are necessary before that status is achieved. A true diamond in the rough.

edit: Sounds like the clean up is under way thanks to Patrick and Dan. Thanks for the hard work! Everybody else should get on this climb, it is high quality in an enticing setting for those who like a bit of solitude compared to other Donner crags.

Location

Far left on the P.C.T. cliff, an obvious black and white streaked wall reminiscent of Mayhem Cove in Emerald Bay, South Lake Tahoe.

Protection

Doubles of micro cams to #3 Camalot and a single #4 Camalot. Two bolt anchor. There is now one chain and one 7mm accessory cord at the anchors.

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Updated description, Patrick. Thanks so much for your efforts. I'll have to get out there in the next couple of months and see the results of your hard work. C'mon people, experience the "new" classic of Donner! Jun 28, 2012
As stated in the PCT Cliff comments, cleaning on this route has continued. Its been brushed and cleaned out pretty well and the base now has a bench. There is now one chain and one 7mm accessory cord at the anchors so no more old Tat. Jun 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Awesome, guys! Yes, a wire brush is in order. APB on a wire brush for the next party out there!

Also, let me know when you guys update the anchor situation and do some cleaning on P.C.T. Crack and I'll update the description. Jun 17, 2012
Belayed Dan Seeliger on an impressive onsight on this route yesterday as he cleaned pounds of mud, sand, moss and some loose rock while leading the route. One of the best routes I've climbed on Donner and with some traffic should clean up and become an amazing classic. Dan did a very good job of cleaning out most of the jamming sections, but a brush would be very helpful. I was happy to climb 2nd as the route was far cleaner.

I left an accessory cord as a back up to the blue and grey webbing previously left. The ring and the biner remain. Next time I head up there, I'll bring some links and another ring to clean up the tat that is now obvious from the PCT below. Jun 11, 2012
Good to hear this fine route is seeing some ascents. One of the best .10+ cracks in Tahoe imho. We had to clean up that short section, of moss/lichen filled, offwidth a bit on the upper section of the route in 94 when we did it. Somewhere I have a photo of the first lead, after we TRed and cleaned it, that I should post sometime. Bet it has only seen a couple of ascents at most. With the new North Tahoe guidebook out hopefully it will start seeing enough ascents to keep that short section of offwidth cleaned up. Jun 4, 2012