Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Unknown - probably John Jackson and Joe Missick with the FFA (1994)
Page Views: 1,058 total · 11/month
Shared By: Captain Obvious on Jun 3, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Kyle Bishop, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A steep, beautiful dihedral starts with fingers and face moves up a steadily overhanging slab of rock. The bottom section is prime granite punctuated by several roof sections and some choice jams. And then... moss hell. The upper wide hands/fists/offwidth section steadily deteriorates into an unholy crap storm of moss sticking to skin, blinding eyes, and raining down on the oppressed belayer. You will look like a moss covered hooligan after this route.

This climb would easily be 3-4 stars were it cleaned up, and it still boasts some prime climbing for the first 2/3rds of the route, but some serious cleaning both in terms of the route and the short approach "trail" leading to it are necessary before that status is achieved. A true diamond in the rough.

edit: Sounds like the clean up is under way thanks to Patrick and Dan. Thanks for the hard work! Everybody else should get on this climb, it is high quality in an enticing setting for those who like a bit of solitude compared to other Donner crags.

Location

Far left on the P.C.T. cliff, an obvious black and white streaked wall reminiscent of Mayhem Cove in Emerald Bay, South Lake Tahoe.

Protection

Doubles of micro cams to #3 Camalot and a single #4 Camalot. Two bolt anchor. There is now one chain and one 7mm accessory cord at the anchors.

Photos