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Routes in Bleisteine - Right

Angenehm überrascht! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bamberger Weg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
K.K.R.S.-Verschneidung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nürnberger Hangelriss T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Offenbarung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Kurt Albert 1980
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 1, 2012
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This route is a classic, but due to its status it's been getting rather polished through the years. It is also rated 8+/9-, which is 5.12b, but it's a bastard of a route and might be a bit hard for 5.12b.
Start to the left where the route name is painted and work your way up and right on good holds to the first bolt. Make sure your technique is clean and efficient because the climbing starts getting harder here (easy 5.11). Climb up past another bolt and to the third where the difficulty increases to hard 5.11 and traverses left to the 4th bolt where the crux (V4 boulder problem) is. The climbing after the crux is easy to the anchor. The route ends below the overhang.

Super beta for me: Climb easy up to the rail to clip the first bolt, placing LH on right side of rail. Move RH straight up to crimp, reposition feet, and go to good jug with LH and match. Reposition feet and move up to slanted crimp with RH and clip 2nd bolt, then LH on crimp. Here you can rest with RH middle finger in pocket and take something in your LH. Take pinch in LH and step up high. Take crap undercling in RH, reach up to decent crimp with LH, gaston with RH, backstep RF on hold just below 2nd bolt and bump RH up to good hold. Clip. Take LH side pull, step up to reach RH 2F pocket, crimp LH side pull, move RH up to 3F pocket and bump up to crimp. LF on big hold directly under COG, LH to crack gaston out far left, RF just above LF, LF placed out left, RH to crimp, step up, crank hard left to sloper rail, make room and bring RH to it, cross feet and LF high, bump LH out to good part on left side of sloper rail. Clip and relax for 10 seconds, stand up on LF on super tiny nub, grab undercling pocket, RF backstep to edge and LF up higher, RH on intermediate and bump up to crimp. Stand on sloper rail and LH out to edge on sloper on left side. Get up to good hold and keep working out the easier climbing to anchor.

Protection

4 bolts + anchor
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
 
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
 
This is the only thing I can find for a reference for the route name:
youtube.com/watch?v=EoP2NCy… Oct 30, 2012