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Routes in Fire and Ice Buttress

Carolina Crocker and the Tipple of Doom S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raiders of the Lost Crag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
S.L.A.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Rick Fairtrace Jr., Scott Jones 1987
Page Views: 415 total · 5/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on May 31, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Meat and potatoes,scruffy crack climbing is what this route is all about. Head up an easy hand crack to the first roof (crux) where you engineer a way to jam or crimp your way out and over of it. Keep jamming away for a few moves, trend right, and establish yourself in the alcove where you'll need to again find a way to surmount the roof. Twenty more feet of scruffy climbing guard the cordalette slung tree that is your anchor.

Location

Just right of Caroline Crocker and the Tipple of Doom.

Protection

Lots of hand sizes. BD #4 will be useful at the crux. A cordalette slung around two bomber trees with two biners made up the anchor as of 5/31/12. All were in good shape.

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Jeff McLeod
  5.10b
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10b
From its condition it seems this route doesn't get too much traffic, which is a shame because it was awesome. Cool roof crux with straight-in fist jams. Be careful at the top. It's nontrivial to get to the anchor (hand traverse), the top-out is on moss and crumbling sticks/bushes. There is a cordelette tied around a couple trees with biners but bring your own, it's moldy, old and stiff. Aug 24, 2015
aribtraryusername
Carson City, NV
 
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
 
10-16-16: once you top out at the tree with the moldy old cord, look to climber's left for a much bigger tree that has a new cordelette and locking biner on it to rap from. you can put a directional on the small tree and then belay from the big one. creates some rope drag but more comfortable.

2nd the comment to be careful at the top hand traverse. there is a fully detached serving-platter sized flake that looks like it would be a good foot, but you might kick down onto belayer

great route that could use an anchor to eliminate the mossy shenanigans on top Oct 17, 2016
Do let the mossy topout and spider village deter you from this climb. This route is chossy, dangerous, and commiting. Beware the detatched flake after the 1st roof as it is big and WILL fall soon.

Delicate liebacking on a sandy, detatched flake after the 2nd roof (which has broken many times) leads to runnout easier climbing on unavoidable hollow rock and multiple dinner table sized blocks that could easily be knocked off with one miss step or even the rope of your second rubbing over them.

The topout is non descript and hard to find. I suggest that if despite this comment you still want to climb this thing, just walk off by hiking up and down the hill located directly in front of the climber and intersecting with the trail you hiked in on.

Rappelling this route poses a large risk for stuck ropes, as well as dislodging the aforementioned blocks at the top of the route.

If all the loose rock and choss were cleaned off the climb and anchors added before the traverse after the 2nd roof, this climb would be a 2 star climb at best. Sep 5, 2018

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