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The Horny Thing

5.10b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 166 votes
FA: Jason Stevens
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Schoolroom Area

Description

An unusually long route in the Schoolroom. The crux is at the beginning, and the first two bolts don't have easy clipping stances. It stays fun throughout the whole length.

Location

It's the first route left of the big crack (Humpty Dumpty) going all the way up the wall.

Protection

10 bolts to anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

approaching bolt #2
[Hide Photo] approaching bolt #2
Connie cleaning The Horny Thing
[Hide Photo] Connie cleaning The Horny Thing
Lowering off.
[Hide Photo] Lowering off.
top to bottom
[Hide Photo] top to bottom

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bmdhacks
Bellingham, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] If the cruxy start on this gives you some trouble, you can merge in to this route from either right or left. Either of these options goes at around 5.9, maybe a bit harder. Then you can toprope the start of this climb. I like starting on Chocolate Doobie and then stepping over the gap, it's a fun alternative. Aug 31, 2012
[Hide Comment] Yep crux is within the first 3 bolts. I liked the climb. I didn't go bonkers over it but three stars for the length and quality compared to other close climbs. May 28, 2013
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The length is what makes this climb pretty cool. The first two or three bolts are the crux - mostly cuz they're so damn slick - but keep in mind that this is only like bouldering a very slick V0. Ignore the temptation to cheat by going left; instead, go straight up. Plenty of rests (if you even need them) after bolt 3. Juggy with plenty of holds. Jun 2, 2013
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] The greasy holds for the first 2-3 bolts made the bottom climb more like 5.10d. Watch out when pulling slack for the second clip, there's decking potential if you're not confident on the somewhat crappy/greasy clipping holds. Oct 11, 2016
Josh Vondran
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome route. Much better than any other climbs at the Schoolroom area, and its nice an long. I'd say clipping the second bolt would be the crux, but the holds are there to do it fairly comfortably if you know how to read the route (I didn't read it well the first time) and clip from the right stance.

Don't be scared to hop on the sharp end, because its well worth the lead. Jul 4, 2019