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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Big Kahuna S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Bolts S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chocolate Doobie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drowning Baby Fish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Extra Credit S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Jets S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Horny Thing, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot 4 Teacher S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Humpty Dumpty's Chimney Sweep Service T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Kahuna S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marble Slate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary Jane Unicorn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moss Pocket S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Redemption of Madonna S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teacher Has A Horn S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 2,190 total · 32/month
Shared By: bmdhacks on May 30, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

An unusually long route in the Schoolroom. The crux is at the beginning, and the first two bolts don't have easy clipping stances. It stays fun throughout the whole length.

Location

It's the first route left of the big crack (Humpty Dumpty) going all the way up the wall.

Protection

10 bolts to anchor

Photos

Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
The greasy holds for the first 2-3 bolts made the bottom climb more like 5.10d. Watch out when pulling slack for the second clip, there's decking potential if you're not confident on the somewhat crappy/greasy clipping holds. Oct 11, 2016
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10b
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10b
The length is what makes this climb pretty cool. The first two or three bolts are the crux - mostly cuz they're so damn slick - but keep in mind that this is only like bouldering a very slick V0. Ignore the temptation to cheat by going left; instead, go straight up. Plenty of rests (if you even need them) after bolt 3. Juggy with plenty of holds. Jun 2, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
Yep crux is within the first 3 bolts. I liked the climb. I didn't go bonkers over it but three stars for the length and quality compared to other close climbs. May 28, 2013
bmdhacks  
 
If the cruxy start on this gives you some trouble, you can merge in to this route from either right or left. Either of these options goes at around 5.9, maybe a bit harder. Then you can toprope the start of this climb. I like starting on Chocolate Doobie and then stepping over the gap, it's a fun alternative. Aug 31, 2012