Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|FA:||Ryan Barber, Bradley White. FFA: Mike C. Robinson, Spring 2012|
|Page Views:||2,209 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Barber on May 30, 2012|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis roof is one of the last super features to be set up at Rumney, and its beautifully aesthetic geology can be clearly seen from Buffalo Road and even from Route 25 for those who know well the mountain. Originally done as a ground up aid climb by hang-dogging on gear and cleaning the debris, it is now ready to be climbed by traveling Rumney sportsters. With positive gear placements most of the way through, it still has the potential for a clean traditional ascent with one short section of pg-13 climbing.
There two main intimidation factors to this climb. The first is a large cammed block with a gnarly shark's fin protruding its top ("Pinky Toe of Fate??") the use of which is absolutely necessary to make your way into the roof. The first ascent made very delicate use of this block, and after passing it, attempted to break it or dislodge it via foot with no success. Subsequent ascents have hauled on the block to reach up into the ceiling, and its camming structure as well rock strength at the fin seem very strong. With the large juggy nature of the fin, it presents itself as merely psychological rather than physical intimidation. The second intimidation factor is the crux traverse around to the face. Fixing a draw on bolt number six is helpful, because you can clip before making the move around the corner onto the face with no risk besides a clean air drop.
Though the access is a little out there by Rumney standards, don't let this deter you from this hidden gem!
LocationIn Ward's Guidebook, the topo for "Lean Mean" is incorrectly drawn through this feature.
There are four options of approach, the easiest being to repel in from the Crow's Nest. Secondly, one could climb Back Crack, and climb through a short black face with double bolts which leads directly to the base. Thirdly, is to climb Cold Feet and traverse left for about 70 feet which again leads to the short black face over which is the base of the climb.