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Yeti Direct

V7, Boulder,  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Santa Barbara… > Brickyard > Yeti Boulder

Description

Start with high with left hand in crimp side pull. Right hand on three finger sloper just to the left of Yeti. Work the feet high enough to dyno to the good holds of Yeti. Finish straight up.

Location

Yeti Sasquatch Boulder

Protection

pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andy Patterson sticking Yeti Direct. (Photo courtesy of Jason Shepherd)
[Hide Photo] Andy Patterson sticking Yeti Direct. (Photo courtesy of Jason Shepherd)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The climb may be more like V7 but it is hard to rate a one move climb. Someone else may have a better feel on the actual rating. May 30, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Bernd and I did this a year or two ago. We agreed on V7. We can't prove the FA (I was the first to stick it that session), but I never got the feeling that climbers had any interest in this line. Too esoteric, I suppose. And as a matter of course, I think it's kinda lame to claim FA's on "eliminates", unless the problem is exceptionally good, so I won't say I did it first.

With bad conditions, this rig feels impossible. When it's cool and dry, however, you feel pretty mighty sticking the dyno. Fun line. May 30, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Also, for those interested in some more obscure send-history, here's a vid of my wife sending Yeti, then a crew of us doing Yeti Direct (Climbers: Mary Skokut Patterson, Bernd Zeugswetter, and Thomas Townsend). Sorry for the poor quality video... May 30, 2012
[Hide Comment] 1. Unquestionably done in the 90s. Perlin, Leube(?), likely others.

2. Choss. I've probably broken hundreds of footholds off the crap rock at the base (okay, that's an exaggeration). I guess maybe it's cleaned up?

3. Why would Yeti Direct be attributed the nonsensical sub-rating of 'PG13'? Yeti is a completely safe, flat landing, perfect height boulder problem. Does the direct version go over a chasm I haven't seen?

4. One move boulder problems should be the easiest to rate, no?

5. Patterson: video fail! Also, your action shot is too big. Can you edit it so I don't have to adjust my window size? Jun 1, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V7 PG13
[Hide Comment] 1) Yes, complete fail. I wish I could edit it. The suck-video was shot on a crappy little digital camera. I'll try harder next time, or I'll simply take stills.

2) I'm also confused about the PG13 rating.

3) People have been climbing this more, so yes, it has "cleaned up". Jun 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] Hmmm...the fail wasn't on video quality. Thing is, I don't see a video at all. Jun 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] PG-13 removed. Jun 1, 2012
steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure if we ever did this. I certainly tried it but, like Bob, said, it was really chossy so it was never worth more than trying something different. I remember a day where a bunch of us were trying it but just can't remember. If we did do this move we for certain did the standard Yeti finish. The top of the boulder was always a mess in those days and it wasn't until we began trying Sasquatch that I made an effort to clean it up in a way it might stay clean. Could totally be a worthy problem now though since that boulder must get a ton of traffic and could be infinitely cleaner, especially true with its own finish. Jun 3, 2012
[Hide Comment] Don't know how I remembered seeing this on APats blog, but here ya go:
imgonnaregretthis.blogspot.…
(bonus Yeti send!; Yeti Direct starts at 1:45)

Jeez this rain is causing me too much lurkiness.. Dec 2, 2012
Marcus Adrian Laguisma
Cupertino, CA
  V6
[Hide Comment] Beta: youtube.com/watch?v=PUqRc2f…

Felt much much easier compared to Grotesque and Mr. Witty which I've been told are benchmark V7s for the area, so this one goes more at V6 in my opinion. Maybe I just like dynamic one-move-wonder type climbs, then again it is a jug you're throwing for. Very cool line regardless of the grade though. Aug 20, 2020