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Routes in Flintstone Rock

Oona Kuma S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oona Kuma Direct S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pigeon Tunnel TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quarry, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yabba Dabba Dudes S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Rances Rodriguez, May 25, 2012
Page Views: 1,210 total, 18/month
Shared By: Caliza on May 29, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Starts about 6 to 8 feet to the left of the conventional start to Yabba Dabba Dudes underneath a new glue-in, which is diagonally to the left below the first hanger of Yabba Dabba Dudes. Crux is a bouldery start if you're shorter about 8 feet above the ground right before the first clip that involves a strong mono-pocket lock-off to gain a good hueco; easy reach to hueco if taller. Then traverses into/crossing the first hanger of Yabba Dabba Dudes and continues on to the right to a circular feature below third bolt proceeding to follow the new line of glue-ins about a dozen feet to the right of Yabba Dabba Dudes. 5.10a/b climbing after first clip that is slightly harder than its neighbor.

Location

On Flintstone Rock on the right side next to Yabba Dabba Dudes. Starts underneath a new glue-in beside a fist size hueco.

Protection

7 bolts and shares chains with Yabba Dabba Dudes. Possible to use an 8th bolt, last bolt on Yabba Dabba Dudes, but first ascent did not use 8th bolt and stayed to the right of it going directly to chains.

Photos

aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Left start. Aug 8, 2016
Caliza
 
Caliza  
 
Did you do the left or right start to Oona Kuma? Nov 2, 2015
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Both my partner and I thought getting to the first bolt was easily 11a. Bring your stick clip. Nov 2, 2015
dgerb
 
dgerb  
 
Great route! March seems to be a decent time to climb here, since it's not too hot yet. The route has plenty of exposure... and more importantly, enough wind to keep you cool.

I thought the crux was getting to the first bolt, regardless of which path you took to the first bolt. I'm pretty heavy, and I didn't want to force my partner to carry me back to the car. Thus I "stick clipped" the first bolt by rappelling from the chain anchor of yabba dabba dudes, and clipping the bolt on the way down.

I should point out that there's a giant flake about 75% of the way to the top. This flake, covered in lichen, is about 1.5 feet wide and several inches thick, and provides a great undercling or right hand side pull. I may suggest to use it with caution, since it did not feel extremely sturdy. Even though my belayer was constantly short roping me, I wasn't mad enough to hurl a 30 pound boulder at him. Mar 10, 2013