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Routes in The Skillet

Angry Angler T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Black Eyes and Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Camel Head, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chubby Pickle Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Entropy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flying Zapato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Eggs & Ham T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Span S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laser Beams S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lightning Bug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mado Skates S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nose Job S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
One For The Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharp Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snag S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steroid Milkshake Mixer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Technician, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Throwing For Jesus S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thunder Fairy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 572 total · 8/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on May 29, 2012
Admins: Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a slopey and technically demanding route that climbs a stunning black and white streaked face and arete.

Start by liebacking up a wide crack to reach the first bolt. Move up and right towards the arete using slopey edges until you can slap around the arete and escape to easier terrian out left. From the ledge, traverse right towards the arete. With nothing but a right-facing arete and minimal feet, fight your body's urge to barn door off the wall, and precariously reach an atrociously slopey shelf. A few more horrendously slopey moves gains a huge jug. But wait, it's not over, the crux awaits. Using a very awkward undercling, stand up on the jug, and commit to more disappointingly slopey edges on the steep black headwall that leads to the chains.

This route has amazing and unique movement, but it was covered in a fine layer of sand. Hence, only three stars. So, if you plan on trying it, bring a brush. As for the grade, 13a seems like a serious sandbag. I wouldn't argue if someone called it 13c. Either way, this thing is a masterpiece.

Location

Look for the obvious black and white streaked wall.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Bring a brush!

Photos

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