Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Garhart and Garman Spring 2012
Page Views: 840 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on May 29, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

2 pitch adventure route that summits a prominent pillar in the central part of the wall.

Pitch 1, 5.10, 80 ft) Climb a narrowing squeeze chimney for~ 20ft until you can't fit anymore and exit on some awkward moves (crux) with licheny feet to gain a #6 camalot splitter that has an inner crack that takes 4" gear. Continue past the splitter into flared, poddy hands and a 2 bolt anchor with a good stance.

Pitch 2, 5.8, 50 ft) From the belay walk to the back of the giant chimney passing over a deep hole. Chimney up in the back with good gear passing a cool window to some steeper chimney moves above (crux). Top out on hand jams and a mantle to a 2 bolt anchor and great views. Fun pitch, feels like canyoneering.

Location

Couple minutes left of where the new approach trail meets the cliff.

Protection

Pitch 1) We used #9 and #12 Valley Giants for the squeeze but Big bros would also work. Singles from #3-#6 camalot.
Pitch 2) Singles from C3's to wide hands. Long slings.
2 single rope raps.

Photos

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