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Beaster Sunday [Suggest Change]
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in 1st Meat Wall
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Beaster Sunday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beef Soda T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Blood Sausage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Braised Ribs T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chicken Nugget T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chicken Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chorizo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Colossal Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Con Huevos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crab Cake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Roasted Starfish T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Kebab T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lamb Chop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Lil Smokey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lonesome Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McRib T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Menudo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Miguel's Fish Tacos T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Milt's Burger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Organ Grinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Raining Meat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rotten Meat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shawarma T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Short Loin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Taco Flavored Kisses T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thin Slice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tri Tips T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trundle Down Unda' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Garhart and Garman Spring 2012 |
| Page Views: | 797 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Garhart on May 29, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
2 pitch adventure route that summits a prominent pillar in the central part of the wall.
Pitch 1, 5.10, 80 ft) Climb a narrowing squeeze chimney for~ 20ft until you can't fit anymore and exit on some awkward moves (crux) with licheny feet to gain a #6 camalot splitter that has an inner crack that takes 4" gear. Continue past the splitter into flared, poddy hands and a 2 bolt anchor with a good stance.
Pitch 2, 5.8, 50 ft) From the belay walk to the back of the giant chimney passing over a deep hole. Chimney up in the back with good gear passing a cool window to some steeper chimney moves above (crux). Top out on hand jams and a mantle to a 2 bolt anchor and great views. Fun pitch, feels like canyoneering.
Pitch 1, 5.10, 80 ft) Climb a narrowing squeeze chimney for~ 20ft until you can't fit anymore and exit on some awkward moves (crux) with licheny feet to gain a #6 camalot splitter that has an inner crack that takes 4" gear. Continue past the splitter into flared, poddy hands and a 2 bolt anchor with a good stance.
Pitch 2, 5.8, 50 ft) From the belay walk to the back of the giant chimney passing over a deep hole. Chimney up in the back with good gear passing a cool window to some steeper chimney moves above (crux). Top out on hand jams and a mantle to a 2 bolt anchor and great views. Fun pitch, feels like canyoneering.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Pitch 1) We used #9 and #12 Valley Giants for the squeeze but Big bros would also work. Singles from #3-#6 camalot.
Pitch 2) Singles from C3's to wide hands. Long slings.
2 single rope raps.
Pitch 2) Singles from C3's to wide hands. Long slings.
2 single rope raps.
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