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Davis' Dirty Crack

5.8, Trad, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Cheyenne Chaffe and Kip Davis, 2010
Colorado > Buena Vista > Davis Face

Description

This is a fun, moderate crack climb up the left side of a pillar / mini-buttress to a 2 bolt anchor. There is grass in the crack. The leader might want a nut tool to clean out placements a little where grass and dirt are taking up red Alien and #0.75 Camalot slots. Gardening on lead = adventure climbing.

A single 60 reaches the ground just fine.

Location

This is the low angle crack system about 50 feet right of What's Up (about 200 feet left of Carter Classic). There is grass in the crack.

(It is not the bolted climb immediately left of Carter Classic.)

Protection

Standard rack (a single rack is fine).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This climb was put up back in 2010. We named the climb "Davis' Dirty Crack", 5.7. Two more pitches continue up from here in a dihedral to the left of the anchor and through a roof up higher. We gave the rating 5.9 for those two pitches. Jun 5, 2012
Cheyenne Chaffee
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] This route actually has three pitches. From the two bolt anchor, head up and left into a flake crack system. Eventually you have to step right to another crack and there should be a bolt somewhere in there to protect the move. About 5.9. Belay on an obvious ledge system. From there, head straight up through a weird little overlap/ bulge thing. The gear is better than it looks. The crux is getting over the bulge, maybe 5.10-, maybe eaiser, you be the judge. Follow cracks adventurously up and eventually moving left to the top anchor of What's Up? Enjoy! Sep 17, 2012