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Routes in Monkey Butt Boulder

Like Monkey Reflexes V5 6C
Type: Boulder, Alpine, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 132 total, 2/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on May 28, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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According to the guidebook- "Stand start with your left hand in a hidden undercling and right on a crimper. Throw to the hanging flake..." Both of these holds are more like crimp sidepulls and fairly obvious. It all seems simple enough- grab the starting holds, pull off the ground and either throw for the flake or use a hard to hit intermediate (gaston or sidepull, depending on your beta) with your right hand. Once you've secured the flake, heroically lay it back to the top. However, the starting holds aren't very good (maybe even broken?) and it all seems quite hard for the grade.


When facing 'Nemesis', this boulder is the next boulder to the right, on the gently overhanging side that faces away from the parking lot. It starts directly below the hanging flake.


A couple crash pads would be nice. The landing is often wet.


Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
It's called 'Monkey Butt'. It's graded v3 in the guidebook, but v2 is probably more accurate. Oct 13, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Does anyone know what the climb to the right of this is? It starts sitting on the arete and climbs up and left using the flakes on the arete and some holds on the face? It was super fun, felt V2-3ish and was better than this line. Oct 10, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
A friend of mine pointed this out to me and said it was v5. Felt awfully hard for a v5. Pulling off the ground is no joke. Really desperate right hand throw to the huge undercling above. I was able to send but as far as grading goes I'd say at least solid v6 maybe even v7. Sep 6, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Bill Patton and I tried this a bit the other day and we both agree that it feels quite hard (especially for v5). Any info on this? Perhaps one or both of the starting holds broke slightly? I could see how either one of them being slightly better would make this considerably easier... May 28, 2012