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Routes in The Penguin

East Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 208 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is for those who like walking more than climbing. If you are planning a trip up the left side of Seal Rock and are an aficionado of obscure Flatirons, this might be worth a quick detour. The crux is near the bottom, nothing too hard, but the lack of traffic keeps it dirty and covered in pine needles. Once you reach the left-facing flake, there is plenty of gear if you want it. Higher on the face the easiest path is through a section of dark brown rock that is pretty loose and flakey. You can avoid it by staying left. With a 70m rope, you can easily make the top in one pitch. If not, there are a few good spots to belay from....

Location

Start on the lowest point of the East Face.

There are a couple of ways off the top:

1) Down-climb through a slot to the west. This is easier if you are tall. Harder than the route if short, but still doable.... It seems like there would be a nasty tumble if you blow it, but it's easier than it looks.

2) Down-climb a little ways down the east ridge until you can reach a ledge system that heads SW back into the hillside. (Roach and Rossiter both mention this way.) It looked easy, but we already went down the slot....

Protection

A few cams and nuts, or just solo.

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