Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Routes in The Penguin
|East Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||208 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roth on May 27, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is for those who like walking more than climbing. If you are planning a trip up the left side of Seal Rock and are an aficionado of obscure Flatirons, this might be worth a quick detour. The crux is near the bottom, nothing too hard, but the lack of traffic keeps it dirty and covered in pine needles. Once you reach the left-facing flake, there is plenty of gear if you want it. Higher on the face the easiest path is through a section of dark brown rock that is pretty loose and flakey. You can avoid it by staying left. With a 70m rope, you can easily make the top in one pitch. If not, there are a few good spots to belay from....
LocationStart on the lowest point of the East Face.
There are a couple of ways off the top:
1) Down-climb through a slot to the west. This is easier if you are tall. Harder than the route if short, but still doable.... It seems like there would be a nasty tumble if you blow it, but it's easier than it looks.
2) Down-climb a little ways down the east ridge until you can reach a ledge system that heads SW back into the hillside. (Roach and Rossiter both mention this way.) It looked easy, but we already went down the slot....