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I Ran To Afghanistan
5.6,
Sport, 110 ft (33 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 165
votes
FA: James Garrett, May 2012
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Storm Mtn Picni…
> Reservoir Ridge
Access Issue: See bullet points in description.
Details
Description
A very consistent and long pitch for the area. This is the most rightward route on this popular East facing wall.
Pitch #1: Start out right in the corner on quartzite changing to brittle shale in the left facing corner trending right and staying on the good quartzite rock typical for BCC. Tackle an easy roof and run straight up the obvious swath on good holds to the two-bolt belay on the ridge crest. 5.7, 35m.
A FULL 35m rappel brings you directly back to the start of the climb.
Lowering rather than rappelling may leave the climber somewhat above ground. ALWAYS tie a knot on the end or use two ropes or extend the anchor with slings and locking carabiners if top roping (TR) for beginner climbers.
Location
On the Reservoir Ridge Wall, starts at the base and trends rightward and up to the ridge line.
Starts immediately to the right of Iraq In The Back Attack and then veers away from it.
This climb requires at least a 70m rope as it is a full 35m pitch. Using a shorter rope and/or using up some of your rope being tied in and top roping as is so common here will lead to problems. Please use a 70m rope and rappel or extend the anchors or use a longer rope or a pair of twin (two) 60m ropes if lowering.
Protection
QDs for 12 bolts to a two-bolt belay/chain anchor.
[Hide Photo] Shaded in the afternoon and gorgeous views.
[Hide Photo] This is all the rope that was left after rapping with a 70m
[Hide Photo] This shows Error of our ways, and I ran to Afghanistan. Irag in the back is right between them and shares the first few bolts of I Ran.
Sandy, Utah
I kinda wonder, given the crowd at that crag, if a lower anchor, or, a tag on the belay anchor, might help folks not automatically lower down off that route. That'd be grim to use a 60m rope and have the belayer not notice the rope going short during a lower.
Kind of an accident waiting to happen, IMHO.
Cheers for all you do! May 28, 2012
SLC, UT
Needs a power wash. May 28, 2012
Pocatello, ID
I used two 48" slings on the anchors to toprope and the ends of my 70m rope were at about knee level near the ground. May 31, 2012
SLC, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
SMOGden, UT
As for when it comes to impact on the enviroment when it comes to beginner sport routes the impact on the enviroment is more detramental then a 5.12 sport route or trad route, unfortunatly this is a fact of this sport. Many of the sport routes that we enjoy do have an impact on the enviroment, once again this is just part of the nature of the sport. In my opinion if you don't like it then don't climb it. Also I would like people to remember that this is a sport of fun, not drama. Keep the love and keep climbing. Jun 8, 2012
SMOGden, UT
The issue here is the negative space, anti-moss highway, that was "paved" into the cliff side. When driving west out of the canyon, it sticks out like a sore thumb. It may eventually blend in, it may not? But if someone wants to make an issue about it, its going to be hard to defend. I remember everyday that climbing is fun, you're preaching to the choir... what is not fun, is route and area closures.
I don't expect that you'd understand any of this, but I do think you'll understand that reducing visual impact is one of the most important things we can do as climbers to maintain and gain access to areas.
To add to the first comment, I don't believe its James' responsibility to alter a route just because its longer than a 60 meter rope length. We need to be cautious and accountable for our own actions regardless of experience. You should never just assume a route is going to accommodate your rope length. Jun 15, 2012
definitely need a 70m rope
even with a 70, youll want to be careful to make sure youre rappelling from the mid point of the rope Jun 23, 2012
Salt Lake City, Ut
Utah
Logan, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Really awesome route! This doesn’t have enough stars. One of the best 5.6s in the BCC Sep 17, 2022