Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: James Garrett, May 2012
Page Views: 3,452 total · 39/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 25, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A very consistent and long pitch for the area. This is the most rightward route on this popular East facing wall.

Pitch #1: Start out right in the corner on quartzite changing to brittle shale in the left facing corner trending right and staying on the good quartzite rock typical for BCC. Tackle an easy roof and run straight up the obvious swath on good holds to the two-bolt belay on the ridge crest. 5.7, 35m.

A FULL 35m rappel brings you directly back to the start of the climb.

Lowering rather than rappelling may leave the climber somewhat above ground. ALWAYS tie a knot on the end or use two ropes or extend the anchor with slings and locking carabiners if top roping (TR) for beginner climbers.

Location

On the Reservoir Ridge Wall, starts at the base and trends rightward and up to the ridge line.

Starts immediately to the right of Iraq In The Back Attack and then veers away from it.

This climb requires at least a 70m rope as it is a full 35m pitch. Using a shorter rope and/or using up some of your rope being tied in and top roping as is so common here will lead to problems. Please use a 70m rope and rappel or extend the anchors or use a longer rope or a pair of twin (two) 60m ropes if lowering.

Protection

QDs for 10 bolts to a two-bolt belay/chain anchor.

Photos