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Routes in Reservoir Ridge

Crack Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errors of Our Ways S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goodro's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Ran To Afghanistan S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Iraq in the Back Attack S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reservoir Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
War Clamor S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: James Garrett, May 2012
Page Views: 2,807 total · 38/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 25, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

A very consistent and long pitch for the area. This is the most rightward route on this popular East facing wall.

Pitch #1: Start out right in the corner on quartzite changing to brittle shale in the left facing corner trending right and staying on the good quartzite rock typical for BCC. Tackle an easy roof and run straight up the obvious swath on good holds to the two-bolt belay on the ridge crest. 5.7, 35m.

A FULL 35m rappel brings you directly back to the start of the climb.

Lowering rather than rappelling may leave the climber somewhat above ground. ALWAYS tie a knot on the end or use two ropes or extend the anchor with slings and locking carabiners if top roping (TR) for beginner climbers.

Location [Edit]

On the Reservoir Ridge Wall, starts at the base and trends rightward and up to the ridge line.

Starts immediately to the right of Iraq In The Back Attack and then veers away from it.

This climb requires at least a 70m rope as it is a full 35m pitch. Using a shorter rope and/or using up some of your rope being tied in and top roping as is so common here will lead to problems. Please use a 70m rope and rappel or extend the anchors or use a longer rope or a pair of twin (two) 60m ropes if lowering.

Protection [Edit]

QDs for 10 bolts to a two-bolt belay/chain anchor.

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Nice, James...

I kinda wonder, given the crowd at that crag, if a lower anchor, or, a tag on the belay anchor, might help folks not automatically lower down off that route. That'd be grim to use a 60m rope and have the belayer not notice the rope going short during a lower.

Kind of an accident waiting to happen, IMHO.

Cheers for all you do! May 28, 2012
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
For that matter lowering off a 70m is a possibility. My brand new petzl 9.4 70's ends didn't touch the ground. With a climber tied in for a lower and the belayer back a few feet the end will easily go through. I had read the description and made a point to put a blocking knot at the very end of the belay side. It came tight to the Gri Gri before I was standing.

Needs a power wash. May 28, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I climbed this today and it was extremely dirty. It will be fun when it cleans up. I love how you can easily tell from the ground where the route goes because there's a cleaned swath right through the moss patch.

I used two 48" slings on the anchors to toprope and the ends of my 70m rope were at about knee level near the ground. May 31, 2012
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
I was wondering if we really want to be clearing swaths of moss from cliffs that are so clearly visible. May 31, 2012
or any cliffs for that matter. May 31, 2012
I, too, went back and climbed the route recently, did a bit more cleaning, and made a point of using a different 70m rope and used a good amount of tie-in to boot. I lowered and again both ends of my rope were not only touching the ground, but at least a foot from each end was lying on the ground. So, my two different 70m ropes had plenty to spare. May 31, 2012
The grade has nothing to do with it James. Impact is more my concern. May 31, 2012
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
James Garrett wrote:I don't expect the 5.12 community to understand this route
You know James, you pull the "5.12 community" card every time someone calls you out. Its becoming a staple reflection of your insecurities. Besides that, you're missing the point. One of the most positive things we can do as climbers is make as little impact as possible. Jun 1, 2012
Matthew Washburn
  5.7 PG13
Matthew Washburn  
  5.7 PG13
I really liked this route, kudos James! It can be done with a 60m rope by rappelling to Iraq in the Back Attack and then back down to terra firma. So it can be done with a 60m rope but one needs to be very careful and be very confedent in what they are doing. The route is still a bit dirty but after more people climb it will clean up.

As for when it comes to impact on the enviroment when it comes to beginner sport routes the impact on the enviroment is more detramental then a 5.12 sport route or trad route, unfortunatly this is a fact of this sport. Many of the sport routes that we enjoy do have an impact on the enviroment, once again this is just part of the nature of the sport. In my opinion if you don't like it then don't climb it. Also I would like people to remember that this is a sport of fun, not drama. Keep the love and keep climbing. Jun 8, 2012
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
Matthew- I have no idea what you're talking about. After reading your post, I'm sure you don't either.

The issue here is the negative space, anti-moss highway, that was "paved" into the cliff side. When driving west out of the canyon, it sticks out like a sore thumb. It may eventually blend in, it may not? But if someone wants to make an issue about it, its going to be hard to defend. I remember everyday that climbing is fun, you're preaching to the choir... what is not fun, is route and area closures.

I don't expect that you'd understand any of this, but I do think you'll understand that reducing visual impact is one of the most important things we can do as climbers to maintain and gain access to areas.

To add to the first comment, I don't believe its James' responsibility to alter a route just because its longer than a 60 meter rope length. We need to be cautious and accountable for our own actions regardless of experience. You should never just assume a route is going to accommodate your rope length. Jun 15, 2012
moss stomping aside, this is a great beginner lead route. very comfortable clipping positions.

definitely need a 70m rope
even with a 70, youll want to be careful to make sure youre rappelling from the mid point of the rope Jun 23, 2012
rging
Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.5
rging   Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.5
The moss comment seems a little nutty to me. The direction the wall is facing does not make that line obvious to see. I have been to that wall several times this summer and just noticed the climb (from the base). Jul 31, 2012
It's 12 draws so don't get caught without enough (happened to me - only had 8) and it's closer to 110ft. so you will need a 70M rope to Rap off safely. Oct 30, 2015
Nathan G
Utah
  5.6
Nathan G   Utah
  5.6
Hopped on this route today with my new Petzl Arial 70m. The tails were right at the ground. If your rope comes up short you could always rap higher up the gully and have an easy downclimb. The route itself was super fun and easy. Every move felt solid and that's coming from someone who gets sketched out pretty easy. I'd totally climb this again. Jul 1, 2017
zoso
  5.6
zoso  
  5.6
Totally? Jul 1, 2017

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