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Routes in Meat Puppet Crag

Beelzebubba T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far Right Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Head Like a Hole T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Howlin' Yowlin' T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Meat Puppet T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undercover Lover T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 392 total · 5/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 25, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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Work up the right angling crack until you reach the "throne" in the center of the overhang. Take a breather and either: monkey your way out left following a steep and juggy crack until you can turn the lip and stand up, or stay a bit more centered and work up the vertical crack. Cruise straight up the featured face plugging gear at will, until a slightly tricky open book presents a final challenge.

Var: Either continue straight up through the book or veer out left for a final fun overhang with good gear.


Left side of the overhanging alcove.

To descend, leave an anchor and lower or walk off (see main area description)


Standard rack.


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Durham, NC
DaveBaker   Durham, NC
I couldn't pull the opening move. If you're on top rope (as I was), or the gear permits, come in to the "throne" from the 5.10 just to the right.

Harder moves for sure, but on much better holds, made the sequence doable for me. 1 day ago
Shane Rosanbalm
Chapel Hill, NC
Shane Rosanbalm   Chapel Hill, NC
While the 5.8 grade is likely accurate, you should know that the right-angling crack leading to the throne is very committing. You trade incut hands for open palm hands in the middle of the opening sequence, all the while on not-great feet. If you're on TR and fall, regardless of how tight the belay, you *will* deck with rope stretch. Make sure you have a bouldering mindset when attempting this opening sequence. 9 hours ago

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