Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 433 total · 5/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 25, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Work up the right angling crack until you reach the "throne" in the center of the overhang. Take a breather and either: monkey your way out left following a steep and juggy crack until you can turn the lip and stand up, or stay a bit more centered and work up the vertical crack. Cruise straight up the featured face plugging gear at will, until a slightly tricky open book presents a final challenge.

Var: Either continue straight up through the book or veer out left for a final fun overhang with good gear.

Location

Left side of the overhanging alcove.

To descend, leave an anchor and lower or walk off (see main area description)

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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DaveBaker
Durham, NC
DaveBaker   Durham, NC
I couldn't pull the opening move. If you're on top rope (as I was), or the gear permits, come in to the "throne" from the 5.10 just to the right.

Harder moves for sure, but on much better holds, made the sequence doable for me. Sep 22, 2018
Shane Rosanbalm
Chapel Hill, NC
  5.8
Shane Rosanbalm   Chapel Hill, NC
  5.8
While the 5.8 grade is likely accurate, you should know that the right-angling crack leading to the throne is very committing. You trade incut hands for open palm hands in the middle of the opening sequence, all the while on not-great feet. If you're on TR and fall, regardless of how tight the belay, you *will* deck with rope stretch. Make sure you have a bouldering mindset when attempting this opening sequence. Sep 23, 2018