Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 656 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 25, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Boulder up from starter crimps, moving left following a crack until you reach the "throne" just under the lip of the overhang about 15 feet up. Catch your breath, then finagle your way over. Then enjoy smooth sailing until near the top, where a bulge of rock presents a final challenge.

Easiest "10" at Moore's (some say a 9), and kind of a one-move wonder but protects flawlessly and is fun, so just get on it. Good route for 5.8 leaders looking to safely up the ante a bit.

Location

Right side of the overhanging alcove.

Protection

Standard rack - take a #2 or a nut with a low profile cable to slot for the roof move.

Photos

dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10
P.S. I count 3 easier 5.10s at Moore's. Nov 28, 2015
Shane Rosanbalm
Chapel Hill, NC
Shane Rosanbalm   Chapel Hill, NC
It is a one-move wonder. But walrus-ing up through that overhang is serious work. For comparison, I found the roof to be harder than the roof moves on two nearby comparitors: Pilot's Hawaii 5-O and Sauratown's DC Comics. I'm not suggesting that those roofs are the cruxes of those routes. I'm just providing comparisons to other roofs I've done. Sep 23, 2018