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Roof Direct

5.12a, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Justin Sanford
New York > Adirondacks > Southern Mountains > Otter Lake Cliff

Description

Starts the same as the "Roof Traverse". After the first two bolts, reach out the overlapping roof section to secure the third clip before moving straight out the roof section. Great problem with a difficult roof section...maybe V4ish moves at the crux, but well protected.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Roof Direct" crux sequence
[Hide Photo] "Roof Direct" crux sequence
On the first ascent of "Roof Direct"
[Hide Photo] On the first ascent of "Roof Direct"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

aparnas
 
[Hide Comment] This is a good route, though short. My only issue is clipping the bolt at the roof. You can't see it at all when you get up to a spot where you could reach it. Consider pre-placing a draw on that bolt so that you can see it hanging below the lip. This will make the clip much more pleasant. Unless you'd rather clip it after pulling the crux moves through the roof... Sep 7, 2021