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Mixed Master

WI4+ M4-5, Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 10 votes
FA: Joe Buzowski & Troy Kirwan; Dec. 1991
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area

Description

This is a great line just one drainage north of the Weeping Wall. Pitches can vary greatly dependent on where you choose to belay. First pitch is pure ice 4- with occasional bolt options on the left. With 70's you can run this first pitch to the amphitheater. The second pitch traverses right and up easy ice to a partial cave, v thread belay. Pitch three can be pure rock M4 traverse left then straight up to bolt/piton belay. Next 1-2 pitches of snow/easy ice to base of upper pillar. Climb typically thin final pillar to top out. Rap off of trees.

Location

Park at the Weeping Wall parking lot and walk north about 200M. You'll see the line on the east. You can easily tell from the road if the route is in.

Protection

Stubbies, assorted small cams and maybe a spector placement, leave the iron at home.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thin last pitch
[Hide Photo] Thin last pitch
Dylan Miller belaying the M4 traverse
[Hide Photo] Dylan Miller belaying the M4 traverse
Right at mixed crux.
[Hide Photo] Right at mixed crux.
Traverse pitch, climber KG, belayer Eric Lashinsky, awesome route
[Hide Photo] Traverse pitch, climber KG, belayer Eric Lashinsky, awesome route
Rapping 4th pitch.
[Hide Photo] Rapping 4th pitch.
Midway up first pitch of Mixed Masters.
[Hide Photo] Midway up first pitch of Mixed Masters.
Mixed Masters.  Top pillar in pencil thin conditions.
[Hide Photo] Mixed Masters. Top pillar in pencil thin conditions.