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Sticks in Stones

M6, Trad, Mixed, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: Bryan Kass Feb 2012
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > D: Keene Valley… > N Face of Pitchoff

Description

This is a pure dry tooling route which will never have any ice on it. Although short, it is a superb addition and a highly worthy route for working on steep dry tooling skills.

Step up into chimney and then quickly move left onto the rock buttress. Climb up to the base of the right leaning crack in a corner. A slight move out right and then back up left establishes you in the overhung crack which takes great gear and has huge bucket hooks. Some long moves get you to the top.

Location

Ascend trail to base of Moss Ghyll. Look left and you will see a chimney/gully. Left of this gully is a short steep rock buttress with a steep right leaning diagonal crack (in a corner) ending near a tree.

Protection

Typical trad rack makes this G rated. Crack is pumpy but hooks are super secure and gear is all there if you can hang on.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bryan Kass on the FA.
[Hide Photo] Bryan Kass on the FA.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Maybe you can draw the line i on this pic? (Though I think I can see where it goes)
cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/cl… Dec 28, 2021
Jeffrey Dunn

  M6
[Hide Comment] Yeah you can see the line thereā€¦ broken flakes are where you step left out onto the rock and then you have a small right facing right leaning corner that leads to an exit crack at a lip below and right of the belay tree. Dec 28, 2021