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Routes in Fluted Peak

Skin Flute Couloir, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 M2
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1400 ft, Grade III
FA: Justin Watts, Derek Wolfe,
Page Views: 1,392 total, 21/month
Shared By: Furthermore on May 21, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

From the base of Fluted's East Face, climb the prominent couloir in the middle of the face just south of the summit.

The climb starts as a moderate snow climb until two short AI2/M1-2 sections are encountered. After climbing past these 2 rock/ice bands, the crux is encountered. Either climb a short 30-40 foot AI3 pitch or a 100 foot mixed chimney (M2/5.3) on the right. The climb continues as a moderate snow climb until nearing the top. If a cornice blocks further progress in the main couloir, take a hidden left spur couloir ~100 feet below the ridge.

The top of the left spur becomes a steep snow climb. From the ridge, hike 3 minutes to the summit.

The best descent is to either climb up and over Little Horn Peak or descend Flute's north ridge to the Fluted-Horn saddle and then back to Dry Lakes.

Location

The route is located in the center of Fluted's East Face.

Protection

A limited rack with a few cams/stoppers and 2 ice screws.

Photos

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