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Routes in Smooth Operator Area

Type: Boulder
FA: Ian CB or Old School
Page Views: 780 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ian CB on May 21, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Start as for Ballistic and do a huge move out right to an edge. Then top it out. A simple, short, and hard problem.

Location

From the parking lot on the right before the ranger station at the north shore walk down hill on the gravel trail towards the lake and when you see an obvious cube boulder just off the trail to the right bust up into the woods to the right and trend south about a hundred feet. Very close to the trail. The problem faces downhill.

Protection

A couple pads

Photos

Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Nice work Peter. I tried that way and couldn't make it go. Cool that there is a way for shorter folks. Curious how hard others think this thing is. My way was the toughest move I've done at the lake. Sep 12, 2014
madisonchoss
  V8
madisonchoss  
  V8
Or.... just reach right to a pinch then lock off to the edge. Unfortunately, this makes Ballistic a little forced. Sep 12, 2014
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
5 stars madison choss! Jun 4, 2013
madisonchoss
  V8
madisonchoss  
  V8
also this gets one star because there is a cool move. It gets no more than that because you can jump to the top from a pad, it's likely that you'll dab, sometimes it's wet, and, most importantly, i can't do it. Jun 4, 2013
madisonchoss
  V8
madisonchoss  
  V8
This is a different problem. So is Velvet Hammer. Hammer Club is not. The difference between these and that is that they end in different places (even though you still stand on top of the same boulder. Different boulder problems need to have either a unique start or or a unique finish, but not both.

Joe's Valley example for Nic:

Wills of Fire / They Call Him Jordan: same boulder problem, They Call Him Michael is just climbing a v6 with v8 beta.

Wills of Fire / We Call Him Michael, different boulders because they start in different places even if they start the same.

Back to the lake:

Velvet Hammer / Alpine Club, Different boulders because they start in the same place but end differently

Velvet Hammer / Hammer Club, same boulder problem, one is just easier than the other (don't care which, my stance is that they are about the same)

Ballistic / Hot & Ready, differnt boulder problems because they start in the same place but end differently

It's true that these don't diverge as much as longer problems, but you're doing unique climbing 100% of the time (after the start hold) so they're as legit as longer problems that have time to diverge more (though lower quality purely because they're shorter, not because the finishes are closer).

These are the standards I use when deciding whether or not to "count" a climb (I have my own personal goals - some things count, others don't because they're dumb).

My chossy 2c. Jun 4, 2013
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
I am psyched you are psyched Nic. If we get another good cold snap you should swing down. It would be fun. Jun 3, 2013
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Judging from your bombshell I take it that you tried this and didn't send Nic? This was very hard for me. Cooler than a number of scrappy few movers that get alot of traffic in major climbing areas too. Just my opinion anyways... Jun 2, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Nice work Ian! This looked super hard. Apr 30, 2013
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Did this today. The rock was very sticky. This was substantially harder than Ballistic for me. And also because I know it's coming I think this is a different problem... or something:) Apr 30, 2013