PRINT: Rock Climb Dawdling Pigalottos, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Dawdling Pigalottos

5.10d, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 10 votes
FA: Algood/Kutsko '89
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Green Adjective Gully

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Fun moves with decent gear up the corner starts you off with a fun undercling move to a jug in the first 15 feet. Then make awkward moves up a flared finger crack behind a flake using some slopey face holds every so often. Exit left at the top to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear is pretty good most of the way but the rock is flakey and loose. Consider TR after Sinsemilla.

Location

Hike up the green A gully, looking for Sinsemilla Crack, the rightleaning handcrack 100 yards past wheels. This climbs the face below milla's anchors. Start on a bushy ledge, 20 feet up from the gully proper by climbing a handcrack in an alcove.

Protection

Standard trad rack for LCC.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo courtesy of Ryan Brough who posted this on Sinsemilla crack. Line starts in the corner right of the yellow face and heads up the flarey cracks to the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Piarulli
Redmond, OR

Awesome route to TR after Sensimilla, might as well since you are all the way up here! I finished to the right side but either way looked good. A little crumbly rock to keep it interesting, would be an exciting lead! Nov 9, 2013

Derrick W
Golden, CO

5.11a

Would be excellent if not for the very very gritty rock. Do the community a favor and run a couple laps on this thing if you're up here. Sep 20, 2015