PRINT: Rock Climb Lichen Worms, Linville Gorge

Lichen Worms

5.8+, Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 67 votes
FA: Mike Fischesser
N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Hawksbill Mtn > Middle Hawksbill

Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…

Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.

Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.

NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.

Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.

Description

Pull over a small roof right at the start, then scramble up a featured face passing one bolt to a ledge. Climb the short left facing dihedral then zip on up the face to a two bolt anchor. The bolts are a little spaced out, but the climbing is never scary. Bring some small cams to eliminate run-outs.

Location

A low roof extends for a good bit on the far right end of the crag. Start at the left end of this feature.

Protection

Mixed. Approx. 7-8 bolts. Full length rappell. Watch your ends! Skinny people may not be able to get enough stretch to reach the ground.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sandy preps for rappel from anchors of Lichen Worms.

looking up lichen worms.

Drone picture of climber at bolts of Lichen Worms

Looking down from the Anchors of Lichen Worms

The distinctive shallow corner feature on the right side of Lichen Worms.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

brazinski

5.8+

youll need a 70m rope to to a rappel with only one rope Nov 19, 2012

chris mcguigan
belmont, nc

5.8+

Great climbing and positioning overlooking a south western shot of the gorge. If you have a 60 make sure the second ties in before lowering the leader. Knot Your ends when rapping. Mar 24, 2014

Tyler Smith 2

Does anybody know what kind of gear this line takes? It says it's mixed, but also says it has 7-8 bolts. Dec 2, 2015

Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC

I think I used one small cam between bolts one and two, and then for the long runout between 3 and 4 (I think this was the spot? maybe between 4 and 5) there's a flaring horizontal left of the line that takes a brown tricam (sling it long). Maybe one more small cam somewhere in there too.

If this grade is under your limit, the runout climbing is not hard at all and you can do it with just draws if you're willing to accept those risks. If you fuck up though, it would not be good. Dec 3, 2015

Matt Westlake
Durham, NC

I don't remember what I used on this route precisely but the whole day I had a single rack of master cams tiny up to the red and that was enough selection to cover the options for most of the moderate routes in this area without weighing me down. I don't think you need anything bigger than a red C4/#1 unless you are tackling the roofs/2nd pitches on these, it's mostly just narrow horizontals. Dec 3, 2015

Anne McLaughlin
Raleigh, NC

I'm not super light, but I'm not heavy either. Got down just fine with a 60m rappel with knots tied in the ends. Apr 30, 2016

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC

A very nice line. Just pure fun. The second bolt is a little awkward to reach up to clip, with a run out up to it. There is a run out between bolts 3 and 4 but the climbing is easier than 5.8. Jul 29, 2017

zachj F

You do not need gear for this climb. The run outs are not bad at all with easy (~5.6) climbing between bolts. By the time you get in position to place a piece of gear you are practically at the next bolt. If 5.8 is your limit the gear may help with the anxiety, but if you climb anything harder than 8 it really isn't necessary. Really fun climb, excellent exposure. May 5, 2018

Mike Holley
Boone, NC

A lOoong fun moderate where the hardest part is just getting of the deck. After that make sure to pack sunscreen and a 70 meter rope because your taking this bad boy all the way to the top! True to the grade with loads of clips and fun vista points to stop, rest and enjoy the beautiful view. Good Clean Clipping fun! Jul 1, 2019

Chelsea Marie

60m rope gets you a few feet off the ground, so make sure to knot both ends of the rope/preferably break out the 70m rope. I really enjoyed the climb, but between the wind, exposure, and run outs (don't have trad gear), I'm not sure I'd jump right back on this climb. Experienced leaders will have no problem with this, but wouldn't recommend for new or anxious leaders. Solid 5.8 climbing. Oct 17, 2022