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Routes in Ambiguously Uncertain Crag

Squeezepenny Rib-Fest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Where's Bob? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Newton Banks and Mitchell Rea, 05/18/12
Page Views: 392 total, 6/month
Shared By: Newton on May 19, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This line follows the obvious dihedral on the south face of Ambiguously Uncertain Crag, directly through an overhanging, squeeze-chimney/offwidth. This slot is the crux of the route, and will put up a good fight.

Expect bushes, twigs and dirt, and especially lichen, because no one ever climbs here. But in contrast to D. Lang's opinion, I found the rock underneath to be pretty solid for the most part. The holds are varied and interesting, usually right where you need them, hiding under a bit of lichen. Pro can be tricky in spots.

If you do follow our questionable leadership and do this as one 200 foot pitch, be wary of running out of gear. And be mindful at the crux - the movement involves techniques alien to a lot of modern climbers, and the potential fall could slam you back into the dihedral with injurious vengeance.

Location

This is on the South face, Ambiguously Uncertain Crag, visible from the road.

Descent: Scramble to the top of the formation (4th class), then walk off down a grassy hillside on the west (climbers left) of the formation.

Protection

Clean trad. Finger sizes useful, wide gear potentially soothing but unnecessary.

Photos

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