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Routes in Little Dude

Big Lebowsky S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chihuahua, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack House T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Easy Dude? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hampster Monkey S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hamster Kung Fu S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hummingbird Rodeo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moonshine S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strange Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 18, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a natural line on the right side of Little Dude that has a spicy section in its middle. The route can probably be done in three different ways.

Start off a ledge system perhaps 20 feet off the ground. There is a scramble going up from the right or a climbing approach from the left.

Climb into a hands to fist crack that is somewhat reminiscent of Lumpy climbing. Where the crack peters out, you have some choices. The easiest is to move right, clipping the last bolt of Hummingbird Rodeo and its anchor and then continuing up and left to the anchors for Easy Dude. Alternatively, you can move slightly left into a delicate and balancy bit of climbing above a slab with pro below your feet. Keep moving up to eventually find good holds and finally a gear placement maybe 12-14 feet above the ledge (9 PG-13 to R). Finally, you can do a delicate traverse to the left on sloping holds until you get to a spot to move upwards. Once through the 12-14 feet above the ledge, the climbing difficulty eases dramatically.

Location

This ascends an obvious crack system on the right side of the southwest face of this crag.

Protection

Camalots #0.75 to #4, 2 bolt anchor.

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