Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: M. Rolfofson, K. Trout, 2003
Page Views: 186 total · 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 18, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a short but good quality route that lies just to the right of an obvious chimney and the route Moonshine.

The start had good hand holds but slippery feet. The crux seemed to be getting your feet high and lockoff for the 2nd hold. Mark Rolofson feels the crux is at the 3rd bolt. Move upward on some good jugs. You can stay slightly left of the bolts and find small but good edges...or...you can traverse right at the 3rd bolt and go for a slap for a sloper (harder, probably 11+ per Mark Rolofson). Either way, continue up easier moves to the 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left and is just right of an obvious chimney.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

The crux is at the 3rd bolt! Not the 2nd bolt! If you find the crux at the 3rd bolt any easier than 5.11d, you must be over left on "Moonshine". I have done this crux many times & two different ways. A big lunge to a dish or a heel hook on the jug using small sidepull holds to reach the dish. It is not just 5.11. I have been here with many 5.12 climbers, & no one has an easy time if they can do the move. Sep 27, 2012
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
This is really good route. 3 distinct cruxes. Long moves on cool holds. I'd say 12-. I'd say harder than Golden Gate. Sep 8, 2013