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Routes in Little Dude

Big Lebowsky S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chihuahua, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack House T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Easy Dude? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hampster Monkey S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hamster Kung Fu S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hummingbird Rodeo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moonshine S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strange Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: M. Rolfofson, K. Trout, 2003
Page Views: 137 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 18, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a short but good quality route that lies just to the right of an obvious chimney and the route Moonshine.

The start had good hand holds but slippery feet. The crux seemed to be getting your feet high and lockoff for the 2nd hold. Mark Rolofson feels the crux is at the 3rd bolt. Move upward on some good jugs. You can stay slightly left of the bolts and find small but good edges...or...you can traverse right at the 3rd bolt and go for a slap for a sloper (harder, probably 11+ per Mark Rolofson). Either way, continue up easier moves to the 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left and is just right of an obvious chimney.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
This is really good route. 3 distinct cruxes. Long moves on cool holds. I'd say 12-. I'd say harder than Golden Gate. Sep 8, 2013
The crux is at the 3rd bolt! Not the 2nd bolt! If you find the crux at the 3rd bolt any easier than 5.11d, you must be over left on "Moonshine". I have done this crux many times & two different ways. A big lunge to a dish or a heel hook on the jug using small sidepull holds to reach the dish. It is not just 5.11. I have been here with many 5.12 climbers, & no one has an easy time if they can do the move. Sep 27, 2012