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Feng Shui

5.12a, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 14 votes
FA: Eric Horst
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 06. Head Wall
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a great line just around the arete to the right of Skinhead Grin. Start with steep dynamic pulling between flat blocky holds to a slight bulge/roof where you make about a 3 foot dyno off of some nice incut crimps to a large hueco (probably 5.11+ to here). After this, there is another pumpy 5.11a section another 20 feet or so wandering through some horizontal crimpy rails. Here, you can shake out before heading left onto the arete. Once on the arete, there is a no hands rest and you will need to perform a cruxy slab sequence to make it to the anchor (V3?). This final section is cryptic so stay cool and just examine the possibilities. 

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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[Hide Comment] There is no 3' dyno on this route unless maybe, you're 5' tall. And by no means is the high crux V3/4.
It is a bit cryptic, but not V3/4. Apr 30, 2017
Blake Lehmans
Charlotte, NC
 
[Hide Comment] I found this route to be solidly 12a. At 5'6" the long move down low was definitely the crux for me. I'll agree with Kevin that the top didn't feel anywhere close to V3, just takes some slab magic to decipher. The bolting down low on this felt heady. Keep an attentive belay, a few overhangs come in to play and I could see the leader potentially breaking rock under the roof if they were to fall into it. Jun 7, 2022