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Routes in Beaverview

Afternoon Tea T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Beardsley Buttress TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bog Spavin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dark Speed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Drumthwacket T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Days T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
King & I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Leaver Your Beaver T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Livin' on the Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Requiem pro Patris T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Slim Pickins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard E. Tucker & Jay Harrison
Page Views: 48 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 17, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Though prone to dampness, when it's in shape, this is one of the better lines at the Beaverview. And the dampness makes it a decent ice line in the winter.
Climb the shallow open book and the outside corner to its left all the way up the wall. Belay beneath a short, bulging headwall. You can run this into one long pitch, but may have to simulclimb a bit in order for the leader to reach a good belay stance at the top.
Tucker began climbing this route in 1990, but strained his elbow scrubbing holds and had to descend. We returned several years later to finish the job.

Location

Begin at the base of a low-angle open book/crack which is an obvious drainage point bounding the left side of the main face. About 100' up, the crack runs beside a R-facing corner.
The tangled saplings and lack of trees below this are makes it clear that this is the same spot as the winter route with the same name.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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