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Routes in Beaverview

Afternoon Tea T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Beardsley Buttress TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bog Spavin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dark Speed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Drumthwacket T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Days T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
King & I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Leaver Your Beaver T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Livin' on the Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Requiem pro Patris T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Slim Pickins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Nov 2011
Page Views: 57 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 17, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This obvious crack begged to be cleaned and climbed. With thorough tidying, this would be a classic route.
The start is the crux; once above the initial moves, the climbing settles down to pleasant crack action. Step left at the top to belay off a good pine tree.
There is potential for a second pitch above.

Location

Begin at a vertical crack near the right side of a section of cliff bounded by a wide, bramble & fern choked gully on the left and a wide, dirty chimney on the right. This is about 100 yards west (climber's left) of the main face.
Rappel off the pine tree on the ledge.

Protection

Standard Rack, doubles of .7 and #1 C4s.

Photos

Jay Harrison  
 
Note that significant rockfall occurred above this and neighboring routes (from Livin' on the Edge to Beat the Crowd ) in Spring 2014. While Drumthwacket was relatively undamaged (there is one 2' spot on the initial crack, about 30' up, that did get hit, but the climbing here is not difficult and the damaged rock is easily avoided), the original belay tree was completely eradicated. There is no natural option for an anchor here. One must now climb an additional 35' to reach a large ledge covered in debris from the rockfall, and even here, belay options are extremely limited.
A particular concern is dislodging loose debris as one climbs or the rope doing the same while belaying the follower/s.
In short, treat this area as an Alpine environment. Dec 4, 2015