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Routes in East Car Body Canyon

Ambition is Critical S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Basalt Somersault T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boys-r-Blue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citizens Against Spiders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cleaning Lady, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eyeless in Gaza T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargling Vinegar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hershey Squirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Holiday in Cambodia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Industrial Age, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Lunch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Macabre Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neon Leprechaun S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pansy - Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pansy, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin the Titanic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Hudson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scream, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spasm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sperm Whale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Temporary Insanity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terminal Hypocrisy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tin Man S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Studs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whaleback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whitehead Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wimp Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on May 16, 2012
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

This route climbs the double dihedral and roof directly below the anchors for The Pansy, merging with it at the 3rd bolt. This adds some fun jamming and tricky stemming, you get to bypass the rather easy and boring start of the original Pansy, and you still get to climb the Pansy's crux. Highly recommended!

Start in the dihedral using a nice handcrack on the right until you reach the roof. Pull the roof using finger locks and smeary stemming.

After the fun climbing up to and over the roof, climb some loose terrain without protection until you reach the 3rd bolt of The Pansy. Finish with the tough (interesting) part of The Pansy.

Location

Starts directly below the anchors for The Pansy.

Protection

Hand size gear for the dihedral, small stuff to protect the roof, and two bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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