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Routes in Beaverview

Afternoon Tea T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Beardsley Buttress TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bog Spavin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dark Speed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Drumthwacket T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Days T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
King & I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Leaver Your Beaver T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Livin' on the Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Requiem pro Patris T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Slim Pickins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: October 2011
Page Views: 135 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 16, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A surprisingly-nice route. Cleaned up, this would be highly recommended.
Climb the crack to its end and continue up the slab without protection (5.5), trending slightly right to reach easy going near the right edge of the wall (one can start climbing here by traversing in from the brushy gully next door, thus avoiding the unprotected slab moves).
Climb through the steep headwall using two vertical cracks, then continue up the face along its right edge to an overhang. Break this through the notch (airy and scary, but well-protected), climbing up to a sloping pine tree ledge. We belayed off a giant pine tree growing right at the top of the cliff.

Location

This route lies on the cliff 150 yards left of and lower than the main face. To its right, a fern and bramble choked gully runs fifty or more feet uphill, alongside what becomes a large right-facing corner on the right edge of this cliff.
It begins at the 15' tall vertical crack close to the lower right edge of the face.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles of 1/2" - 1" cams.
DESCENT: Rappel off the giant pine tree, heading climber's right into the gully, then walk down and around to the base. A single rope won't reach the bottom of the climb!

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