PRINT: Rock Climb Pan Tease Lower, Squamish

Pan Tease Lower

5.10c, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV,

Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Squamish Buttress

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

A much more interesting way to get to the Buttress crux pitch or Butt-Face than the crappy rambly standard approach. The final 10c pitch is stellar!

P1: 5.10b 35m Make easy moves up the v-slot past the bush onto a slab. Head up and left past a bolt, up and right through a small roof, then hard right to two bolts.

P2: 5.9 25m Step right, go up a groove, then hard right across a slab (pin + bolt) and up to two bolts by an overlap.

P3: 5.10b 25m Do a tough move over (or aid using bolts; sometimes wet) the overlap and head across the slab. You will eventually see a tree with old slings.

P4: 5.7 10m Go straight up to a bolt belay on a cedar.

(You can easily link P3 and P4 with judicious use of slings)

P5: 5.10c 40m The money pitch. Step left and up a short handcrack. (The awesome hanging flake rightward is 11+). Traverse left into another crack (easy), then stem, layback, mantle and jam up the looong beautiful varied corner to chains.

Walk to climber's right to a smorgasbord of cracks from 10c to 12a.

If you want to do Butt-Face (5.9) instead of the Buttress 5.10c crux pitch, scramble 10 fet down from the Buttress terrace, then rap 20m off a good tree and you will be at the base of Butt-Face.

Location

Start about 25 feet to climber's right of where the standard Squamish Buttress 5.9 pitch starts. As you move right along the trail, look up, and you will see a V-block hanging in a small v-slot with a small tree just above the block. Scramble up ten feet to a comfy stance (2 trees) to belay.

Protection

2x Camalots from .3 to #1
1x Camalots #2 and #3
long slings

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Johnny Y
California

maybe because of all the moss, I couldn't find the pin and bolt on the second pitch, definitely no fall zone on mossy slab Aug 19, 2014