Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mark Thorne, Ray Friend, Earl Devault
Page Views: 782 total · 10/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on May 14, 2012
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

From the block above the Lower Broadway Chimney, locate the 'clean' area of rock. Climb up past a few small left-facing flakes and some gear placements (small cams). Continue up, following the cleaner rock and finding gear wherever you can.

About 3/4 of the way through the route you'll be just below a large bulging blocky section that's covered with lichen above. The original route went left here to end at the belay ledge at the end of Old Lady's P1. The better link-up is to move right, passing a large horizontal crack (#3 or 4 cam) and then joining Old Lady's P2 about midway through.

Traverse the rest of Old Lady's, set some gear on long slings, and make a belay at the trees at the end of Old Lady's P2.

From here you can finish Old Lady's or follow the crack system straight above you, which is Windy Corner (5.4), to the Summit Ledge.

Location

Lower Broadway Ledge, just above the Lower Broadway Chimney.

On Lower Broadway, walk north until you reach the short chimney. Boulder up this, then turn to your left and locate the large block. The route is pretty much the only 'clean' line in this area.

Protection

Stantard Seneca rack. #3 or 4 cam helpful.

Photos

Foster Tucker
Morgantown, West Virginia
 
Foster Tucker   Morgantown, West Virginia  
 
I agree with the guidebook in giving this a PG rating. Protection is pretty scarce down low but you can protect it adequately with some small cams. If you are using this route to get to Windy Corner, the link-up in the description is the way to go. With the proper gear extensions, you can get all the way there in one long pitch with minimal rope drag. Aug 10, 2017