Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star)

5.12-, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Doug Couleur / Lee Sheftel
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Mosaic Rock
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description

Thin face climbing characterizes this climb, which follows a green streak below the tree. Stay just left of the bolt line past the first 2 bolts. The crux is a thin/reachy section just after bolt 2. After this, move right, clip the last two bolts, and work up courage for the last 20' to the tree, which turns out to be easier than it appears. The guidebooks show that one could continue past the tree up and left to the bolted anchor for Techweenie (bring gear if doing so), but I can't think of a compelling reason to do this.

Though this is a worthwhile climb, a bit of flaky grunge to the right, and the temptation of significantly easier climbing to the left in the lower half detract, to some extent.

The old guide from the late 1970s(?) notes some people climbed as far as the tree, not sure on exactly how, but didn't continue to the top (THE MOSAIC- unfinished - probable 5.11). This would have been before the modern version of the climb was bolted. The Techweenie comments has some info: apparently there were some slings on the tree, the comments on that page suggest that Holthouse (or Todd Skinner?) may have gotten up there.

Location

The line to the tree on the steep section of Mosaic Wall, just left of Dirty Diagonal.

Protection

4 bolts to a tree with slings.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.12- PG13
[Hide Comment] There were no quick links, only a sling on the tree when I topped out. I elected to go left using a roller and was able to get to the 11 + to the left and clip a bolt without any additional gear. The Traverse was reasonable. The route is certainly worthy of an anchor on its own. Definitely harder than the routes to the left. I did however place a marginal nut to protect the last 20 feet to the bush. That run-out seemed sketchy. May 27, 2018