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Routes in Orc Wall

Burn Gage TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Death's Door TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
First Blood TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
First Blood Part II (Shoshin) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lumberjack Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
twinkle toes TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 123 total, 2/month
Shared By: Pete Hunt on May 12, 2012
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Just south of First Blood lies a large block looming overhead at the top of the cliff. Start on a corner and climb straight up under the large block, following an intermittent crack system as you go. Make use of the tricky holds in the shallow dihedral (crux) and if you're still hanging on after that find reprieve from the big buckets under the roof. Finish by going left and up.

Note: The buckets mentioned above are part of a large detached chunk of stone. I kicked at this hard on rappel and couldn't even make it move, but use caution.

Protection

Long anchoring materials are helpful for setting up a TR. You can probably get by without any artificial pro due to the large amount of boulders and trees scattered at the top.

This would likely be a poor lead due to lack of protection from what I remember, but feel free to look for placements.

Photos

I climbed it last weekend and the bolt was still there, but the hanger is removed. Note that you can protect that part with a blue totem cam (that's about #.3 in C4 size), the crack was a bit flared so the totem seemed appropriate. Aug 9, 2017
travis lang
alexandria,mn
 
travis lang   alexandria,mn
 
Glad I'm not the only one who was upset over the appearance of that random bolt. Apr 2, 2015
Pete Hunt  
 
Right on Doug, I agree that it should be pulled. Kinda weird how it just popped up on a relatively low traffic route. I'll keep my eye out for any other bolts being added to the area but my guess is it will be an "isolated incident". Jun 22, 2014
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Pete, that section did look unprotectable which is probably why someone thought it needed a bolt. My friend and I didn't climb the route, we just noticed it as we were checking out some others routes.
I'm not sure if any of the park staff is knowledgeable about bolts (or if any of them even climb) but hopefully this is an isolated incident and won't affect climbing access. That said, the bolt should be removed as soon as possible. I'll gladly do it if I get back up there this year. Jun 14, 2014
Pete Hunt  
 
Here are pics of the bolt. (edited)



Jun 13, 2014
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
So who's the idiot that put a bolt in the middle of the slab section half-way up this route? May 21, 2014