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Cloak and Dagger

V2, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Brendan Blanchard(?)
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Down Under

Description

This is a neat problem starting on a flake that ends just when you need it most. Look for the "Dagger," a loose (but secure) block hanging over the face.

This climbs the flake/face just right of the block. Continue up the blank looking face with small nubbins and crimps. The topout is definitely highball, but the crux is the last six or so feet below the topout.

Location

This is on Down Under, on the long face between the other established boulder problems and the face that contains "Splitter."

Walk off the climber's left from the ledge, take the trail around or just scramble down the base off left.

Protection

Two pads, two spotters is ideal. Make sure that the climber doesn't hit the ankle/knee breaker block directly under the climb.

Optional TR from gear (#2, 0.5, 0.3 BD works well).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The dagger is gone, but the climb is still a blast! Such a magnetically attractive line.
[Hide Photo] The dagger is gone, but the climb is still a blast! Such a magnetically attractive line.
The lower flake and upper blank face. You can see the "Dagger" looming above.
[Hide Photo] The lower flake and upper blank face. You can see the "Dagger" looming above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  V2
[Hide Comment] If you know a previous ascent or the FA, let me know and I can change details as needed. May 12, 2012
jim.dangle

[Hide Comment] There was major rockfall here recently. The large detached flake (referred to above as "the dagger") has now fallen off and is laying at the base along with another larger flake.

I'm surprised this fell off as the cliffs in Redrock are generally pretty stable. Not sure if it was trundled or not.

Jim Jan 21, 2015
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  V2
[Hide Comment] I can't imagine it "fell." I've sat on the edge of that thing. Given the amount of cans, baggies, graffiti, etc. that you can find on a short walk around the area, I'm guessing someone had a lot of fun and ruined a cool feature of the cliff. Jan 24, 2015