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Routes in The Monkey Skull

Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Casual Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fever Dance T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fringe Dweller T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hollow Be Thy Name T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking for Trouble T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Monkey Trial T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripple S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skull and Bones S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summit Block T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Upside The Cranium S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Paul Pomeroy
Page Views: 157 total, 2/month
Shared By: paul pomeroy on May 12, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start on the second tier of the Monkey Skull directly above Upside the Cranium. Clip the first bolt and make a couple tenuous moves (crux) (from a strange (rattly?) little knob with a bouldery bear-hug past two bolts to a finger slot on the right (crux #1)) up to better holds. Surmount the bulge onto a rounded shelf and find easier, ledgy climbing and a hand crack for a bolt or two. Move right and up a moderate face to the base of an obvious water chute. Step right into the chute, layback up a rounded protuberance past four bolts, and mantle up to a two bolt anchor. This makes for a fun continuation of any of the lower routes.

Per JFM: this goes to anchors on the summit block shared with Alvino's Variation, 5.8, and Summit Block, 5.10R.

This is a combination of two submissions on the same route.

Location

This is a line of bolts dead center of the face above the big ledge above Upside the Cranium and Sunshine Dihedral.

Per JFM: rap from the coldshuts back to the ledge. Rap Upside The Cranium, making sure to find halfway on a 70m rope (it'll just get you down-- or be prepared to downclimb some easier stuff with a 60m).

Protection

7 (8-9?) QDs plus two for the closed, coldshut anchor. Small cams or medium stoppers could be used on the moderate face but aren't necessary.

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