Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Paul Pomeroy
Page Views: 1,029 total · 7/month
Shared By: paul pomeroy on May 12, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Start on the second tier of the Monkey Skull directly above Upside the Cranium. Clip the first bolt and make a couple tenuous moves (crux) (from a strange (rattly?) little knob with a bouldery bear-hug past two bolts to a finger slot on the right (crux #1)) up to better holds. Surmount the bulge onto a rounded shelf and find easier, ledgy climbing and a hand crack for a bolt or two. Move right and up a moderate face to the base of an obvious water chute. Step right into the chute, layback up a rounded protuberance past four bolts, and mantle up to a two bolt anchor. This makes for a fun continuation of any of the lower routes.

Per JF M: this goes to anchors on the summit block shared with Alvino's Variation, 5.8, and Summit Block, 5.10R.

This is a combination of two submissions on the same route.

Location Suggest change

This is a line of bolts dead center of the face above the big ledge above Upside the Cranium and Sunshine Dihedral.

Per JF M: rap from the coldshuts back to the ledge. Rap Upside The Cranium, making sure to find halfway on a 70m rope (it'll just get you down-- or be prepared to downclimb some easier stuff with a 60m).

Protection Suggest change

7 (8-9?) QDs plus two for the closed, coldshut anchor. Small cams or medium stoppers could be used on the moderate face but aren't necessary.

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