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Half Hearted

5.10d, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 75 votes
FA: Bill Boyle
Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Road > Windshield Wiper Wall

Description

A surprisingly pumpy route on mostly positive holds, but with some nerve-wracking moves on somewhat-less-than-large features.

Start at the left of the black water streak; the first bolt is a bit above head height.

Climb up the left side of the gritty black streak, occasionally venturing in the tan rock on the left (but you'll not want to delve too deeply into the left—loose choss awaits and your belayer will be unhappy).

Fight the pump, and wonder around the sixth or seventh bolt if it will ever end.

Location

When you emerge from the short trail from the road you are directly in front of the black water streak. This line ascends the left side of the streak.

Protection

10 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stephanie and Allison, Half Hearted. May 2018.
[Hide Photo] Stephanie and Allison, Half Hearted. May 2018.
Susan reaches for jugs near the end<br>
Half Hearted (5.10d)
[Hide Photo] Susan reaches for jugs near the end Half Hearted (5.10d)
[[107603666]] 5.11a
[Hide Photo] Half Hearted 5.11a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
[Hide Comment] This route is still cleaning up so take care with a helmet. As you start this adventure to the left of the climb is seemingly broken rock. You might be tempted to charge for its beckoning bigger holds but dont. I pulled off some holds on this one and pulled on some stuff that I thot for sure would come off but didnt. Go with faith. Overall it was quite rewarding. May 12, 2012
[Hide Comment] This route climbs so well! It is bolted very well and flows amazingly. One of the best 11a sport routes I've done. Great warm up for the longer harder stuff. Jun 8, 2014