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Routes in The Loaf

Alabama Hills Gang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loaf Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pangborn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paulette's Shortcut S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Ron S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Big Al Bartlett, Errett Allen 1/1987 - GU
Page Views: 542 total, 8/month
Shared By: susan peplow on May 11, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Arriving to the loaf this is the first classic line you'll find on the far left side of the formation on the north north/west side. Not to be confused with a mystery 4 bolt line found under the roof - unknown history or difficulty.

This classic line starts on a slab and travels a good ways 15' to a slab move and small roof. Protection with med/large cams under roof available. After surmounting the small roof the games begin. Only experienced climbers with their lid screwed on tight should attempt this lead. The ability to stop and tie off knobs and equalize marginal gear behind flakes a plus. One bolt located about half-way up the route. You'll see a similar bolt only 5' away for the neighboring route "Bad Bananas". Clip the bolt, chose your path and travel towards the arete to gain the summit. The original route follows just right of the arete then sweeps right to top anchors (Mussy Hooks) at 42m! Be mindful of the length of this crag as two ropes or shenanigans are required for descent.

Optional anchor located about 20' below and left (towards the arete) of the original line which will work for a sling-shot system using a 70m rope. This sub-anchor is likely the primary for the mystery 4 bolt route under the arete. Works fine if you'd prefer to belay from the ground and don't mind missing the last 20' of this classic line.

Location

The Loaf Arete is located on the far left side of the north/west face of The Loaf. Note the name "arete" and do not confuse this route with the 4 bolt line that travels under the arete and crossing over to the face on at the 4th bolt. The line starts on the far left with face climbing until a small slab/roof has been gained (1st available protection)

Protection

One Bolt plus (2) 2-3" cams, set of wires, a few small cams (wishful thinking), many long slings.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9 R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9 R
Really good outing. Bring a 2.5" and a 3" cam to stuff under the roof before casting off onto the face. There are plenty of horns to sling before the bolt, most of which will probably hold a fall. The bolt is an older 3/8" pound in, and seems to be sound. Surprisingly good pro (med wireds) shows up at a horizontal break, and by then you'll want it. Mosey on up and left on good holds until you are on the arete proper. Easy climbing leads to a new bolt from some other route a few feet below the anchor. 70m cord will let you lower from here. May 13, 2012