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Routes in Little Amphitheater

Blueberries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Wife's Pajamas T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popeye Effect, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspiciously Delicious T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 993 total, 15/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 11, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Another fun moderate in the spirit of Easy Hard and Head Jam and should be on the list of all folks tackling those routes.

Slightly tricky start getting established on the slab then a casual romp to the crux on the upper headwall.

Either meander and follow the path of least resistance+max pro or tackle a series of small overhangs directly until you reach the upper headwall - which can also be a nice TR afterward if you want a little added value. Get pro high in the arching crack out right and go STRAIGHT UP the vertical face. (following the right arching crack is a more difficult variation that takes you out right of the topout rap station) Nice exposure and some cool moves here! Be patient and scope out the holds and it'll make sense at 5.6 although it can be a bit intimidating for folks typically leading the easier grades.

Watch your fall consequence on the low angle slab.

Great way to get to the Meat Puppet crag - after topping out, hike directly up and go left when you hit the trail at the cliff wall and you'll be deposited at the base of Meat Puppet. Be careful to note the trail back as it's less obvious on the return trip if you plan to rap back down here rather than hike the gully.

Location

From the main Amphitheater area (with Golden Earring, etc) this is slightly up the trail in the Sentinel Buttress direction just past the little amphitheater. Look for a clean slab with a small dead tree at the base, angled just right for leaning against. A short distance further up trail you'll run across the impressive Bubbalicious arete.

Protection

Mostly smaller gear to start and save a couple BD C4 #1,2 sized pieces for higher up. Rap station on tree at the top.

Photos

Yes Ben- I did re-climb this. I understand now how do it at 5.6. If you do it wrong, it is pretty hard. Nov 2, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Russ, I would say try this climb again, but do not follow the crack near the top. That way is 5.8ish and gets you pumped. Staying on the face to the left is thinner, but also less steep and with positive holds. That is the 5.6 way. I went up the crack my first time and was confused at the rating as well. Jul 5, 2016
In my opinion this climb is very difficult. I will go ahead and call it a sandbag at 5.6, and know that I don't say that with frequency. This is most certainly a 5.7 climb. The section from the bottom of the crack, heading straight up to the anchor, is rather complicated and steep. When you gain the large horizontal, but need to go left, the feet are complete crap, and you are screwed. It's all slabbiness and air/space below. Then while getting pumped and balling up to move up and get the hell out of that position, you are looking for something along the lines of your typical Moore's 5.6 bail-out hand hold, but no... awkward grabs, hanging on for dear life, (hopefully you had the right piece for the horizontal, and walked it over, or else you are now up a creek). The necessary sequence here with the feet and with the hands is pretty ballsy and a bit insecure and technical.

It's a cool climb. Has a different feel than the other stuff at Moore's at that grade, as best I can tell. Jul 2, 2016
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Late summer it's going to feel a bit slimy and buggy, particularly with all the rain lately. On a day with better conditions you'll find the slickness and bugs more in check.

There is also a sort of hidden jug hold that makes getting underway a bit easier, then it's just a matter of standing up on a thin ledge. It can be a bit unnerving trusting the flat slopey ledges that serve as holds for most of the beginning when it's wet or really humid. I don't find this much harder than Easy Hard, and in some ways quite a bit easier than Head Jam. Sep 8, 2014
Jerel
  5.7
Jerel  
  5.7
The start was tougher than 5.6, mainly because the lower section is wet and slippery. It is a decent warm-up and can be made easier/harder by going right or left (there is not an obvious, continuous crack to follow), but there were cobwebs and bugs the whole way (more than other routes in the area). Sep 6, 2014